Another big day - we had to make up the 20k to St Lo, then get on the trail to Cherbourg. Today was DDay. St Lo was a famous battle site for the Allied armies under Montgomery. Otherwise, we found it a non event. The crawl out of St Lo was just staggering - it was steeply uphill for 2-3k and we didn't bother getting on the bikes!!! Once out of the town we were glad to get going. By the time we got to Carentan I had been promising Julie the flat lands of the Caretan where I knew the 101 US airborne troops were dropped on 6 June. The land is indeed flat and very watery - there were 89 US paratroopers drowned on the airdrop because the occupying forces had flooded the Caretan area. Their packs were too heavy once they dropped in to water, even shallow water.
By the time we got to Caretan there were initial sights of DDay activity. The days are mostly miserable thick clowd - today we thought it was actually raining but it was just really thick mist.
We got lost in Caretan and couldnt find our way out, but when we did we bumped into 'Dead Mans Corner' - now a museum of the US military, where the first paratroopers came down. We met one of them on the boat the next day who had dropped exactly there, his friend dropped a few hundred meters away right into the lap of the Green Devils, the crack German paratroopers, and along with others were sadly all killed. It was an honour to meet him.
We left Dead Mans corner and made our way to St Mere Eglise where the paratrooper came down and was caught on the church steeple. A dummy still hangs there. The town was crawling with DDay activity - US jeeps everywhere, men in US AA military uniform, trucks, marching up and down the street - it was really an electric atmosphere. We couldnt wait for the parade, but headed to Orglandes - a special place. It is a hardly known village on the way to Cherbourg - a military cemetery with more than 20,000 men of ages from 18 that I saw to mid forties. This is one of four 'cimetiere' for German soldiers in the area. I had previously been to the one at La Combe. This was a very sobering moment for us. I stood in the midst of this very sacred place where 6 soldiers shared the one headstone - all brothers, sons, fathers and husbands of german families there through no fault of their own. It was difficult for us to leave.
Cherbourg from here was a huge effort. It was over 100k today, and we never thought we'd get there. The climbs returned, and we ambled into town at about 9pm at night, the last few k frighteningly downhill. We had a great hotel on the waterfront to complete an historic day for us.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Falaise to Torigni (Not St Lo!) - 76k - Tues 5 June
Hey - I have a lot to catch up on! We are in Launceston (pronounced lawnston) from where Phillip Gidley King came from, (who named launceston, tas.). We have been on the road for nearly two weeks, but internet access is non existent. \went early to the town library today and it was closed for the day! Angus, why didn't Doug even offer to set me up with satellite for the Blackberry!
We had such a hard day this day that we got to villers bocage and rang ahead for a camp site at st lo and becasue there werent any, we diverted to \torigni. \it was in fact a beautiful flat almost downhill run for 20odd k, and \i sat behind \julie all the way at about 30kph. \she was keen to get there! When we stopped outside the caravan park, she promptly did what we call in the trade a 'dead ant' - she fell off from a standing still position. \fortunately she fell to the right (remember we ride on the right here in france) and fell heavily, bruising her 'butt' big time - she still has a bruise about as big as a foot print! Welcome to the world of cycling. It was a big day.
\we actually enjoy the tent. It is most cosy, and we cook and eat very well indeed. All facilities have been quite impressive.
We had such a hard day this day that we got to villers bocage and rang ahead for a camp site at st lo and becasue there werent any, we diverted to \torigni. \it was in fact a beautiful flat almost downhill run for 20odd k, and \i sat behind \julie all the way at about 30kph. \she was keen to get there! When we stopped outside the caravan park, she promptly did what we call in the trade a 'dead ant' - she fell off from a standing still position. \fortunately she fell to the right (remember we ride on the right here in france) and fell heavily, bruising her 'butt' big time - she still has a bruise about as big as a foot print! Welcome to the world of cycling. It was a big day.
\we actually enjoy the tent. It is most cosy, and we cook and eat very well indeed. All facilities have been quite impressive.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
Breteuil to Falaise - 101k - Mon 4 June
Sorry for racing these - we are in the back room of a very nice fellow who runs a computer store in Falaise who has allowed us to use his computer. We got in to Falaise after another 101k day. not so many strong hills as yesterday. except for the last 30k or so.The country is incredibly beautiful and stunning. We ride through village after village. Managed to buy a camera this morning from a kind of ALDI store. It will do. Faliase is very medievil - the birth place and castle of William the Conqueror - we camped below his magnificent castle 12th century. More later.
We are doing fine and in great spirits. Bikes are good - I busted the seat post bolt at the airport putting it together, so had to ride with my knees hitting my chin until I found a little french man in a village with the right bolt.
To day a short 85k to St Lo - tomorrow is DDay. Julie has just said it is a "7 hills ride" today. She really is doing fine with the bike. More later.
We are doing fine and in great spirits. Bikes are good - I busted the seat post bolt at the airport putting it together, so had to ride with my knees hitting my chin until I found a little french man in a village with the right bolt.
To day a short 85k to St Lo - tomorrow is DDay. Julie has just said it is a "7 hills ride" today. She really is doing fine with the bike. More later.
Cergy to Breteuil - 118k - Sun 3 June
Hey - this was a tough day, and due to not counting the k's on the map in preparation, this was a megga 118k day, but with grit and determination we made camp, set up the tent and had the billy boiling in no time. Tell you more later. Oh, by the way, we had our camera stolen early this morning through the window of our hotel room - Julie saw the hand in through the window. Sad about losing our first photos, but can't do much about it. More later.
Paris to Cergy - 75k Sat 2 June
Yes we made it - a great day - just need another day or so to fill you in. Julie is a legend on a loaded bike on massive climbs - not fair for day 1!
It took some 2 hours to get our bikes assembled in the Arrivals area, and answer all the questions of curious passers by. It was about 10am when we nervously ventured out front of this very large Terminal, and to try to get our bearings. Asking questions of airport staff didnt seem to give us clarity, so we took off anyway. We each had our Aussie flags proudly displayed off the back of our bikes.
We stopped at a garage to buy water, and then try to make sense of the french guys we were asking directions from. Julie seemed to make more sense of it than me, so we headed off again. We get very easily confused because the place seems to be all ring roads, and being on the 'wrong' side of the road now, everything seems back to front.
I tried to visualise the place from my visit some 7 years earlier, but we were coming out of a different Terminal, and nothing looked familiar. We headed off down this very busy main road that seemed to head into a tunnel for a long distance. It was single lane, and narrow, and after a nod from a passing Policeman to Julie's rapid gesturing, we set sail into the tunnel, me in froint and Julie following. I could hear her calling, but I couldn't make out what she was saying.
Only when we survived the tunnel alive, with trucks and all kinds of vehicles passing ever so closely, and we exited on a minor road to catch brerath, did Julie tell me that I lost my precious Aussie flag in the tunnel. I felt so disappointed, but there was no going back. So Val - I have been flying the Aussie cap you gave me - its almost a flag, and it is the last thing I attach to my rear pack everyday.
The trip to Cergy was so incredibly interesting. It was further thanh we planned, but once we found the village of le Mesnil just outside the airtport, we were immediatley orientated and on track. French villages passed every few k's. It was all very delightful.
Ironically, when putting the bikes together, I broke the bolt that holds my seat post up. So I couldnt fasten the seat, and was forced to ride it with the seat at least 5'' lower than usual. It really did feel like I would hit my chin with my knees. Thanks to a little french mechanic we passed in a small street in a vuillage later in the day, he was so pleased to be able to help with a perfectly fitting bolt. He spoke no english, and I never learned the french word for bolt - but he got the message and was so helpful. We were grateful to God for putting him right where we needed him.
The last few k's went very slowly. We had been travelling for 28hrs or so, and were hanging out for a decent sleep in our Hotel room. Cergy is on the western outskirts of Paris, but we had to ride in a very large semi circle from the north east side of Paris where De Gaulle airport is, to get to the western fringe. The Hotel was just okay, but a pleasant refuge for us after such a long trip.
We made the mistake of opening the single tiny window for air, and went to bed. Julie woke next morning to a hand reaching in through the window, and at her startle dexclamation, the arm disappearede, as did our precious camera! I leapt to the window, but no sign of anybody. I went to the rear door - but it was security locked overnight, and there was no exit for anybody. Goodbye camera. It was a sad beginning to our trip, butr we decided almost instantly that it was gone, and fretting would not get it back.
We set our faces for Breteuill that morning in the hope we could buyt another one.
It took some 2 hours to get our bikes assembled in the Arrivals area, and answer all the questions of curious passers by. It was about 10am when we nervously ventured out front of this very large Terminal, and to try to get our bearings. Asking questions of airport staff didnt seem to give us clarity, so we took off anyway. We each had our Aussie flags proudly displayed off the back of our bikes.We stopped at a garage to buy water, and then try to make sense of the french guys we were asking directions from. Julie seemed to make more sense of it than me, so we headed off again. We get very easily confused because the place seems to be all ring roads, and being on the 'wrong' side of the road now, everything seems back to front.
I tried to visualise the place from my visit some 7 years earlier, but we were coming out of a different Terminal, and nothing looked familiar. We headed off down this very busy main road that seemed to head into a tunnel for a long distance. It was single lane, and narrow, and after a nod from a passing Policeman to Julie's rapid gesturing, we set sail into the tunnel, me in froint and Julie following. I could hear her calling, but I couldn't make out what she was saying.
Only when we survived the tunnel alive, with trucks and all kinds of vehicles passing ever so closely, and we exited on a minor road to catch brerath, did Julie tell me that I lost my precious Aussie flag in the tunnel. I felt so disappointed, but there was no going back. So Val - I have been flying the Aussie cap you gave me - its almost a flag, and it is the last thing I attach to my rear pack everyday.
The trip to Cergy was so incredibly interesting. It was further thanh we planned, but once we found the village of le Mesnil just outside the airtport, we were immediatley orientated and on track. French villages passed every few k's. It was all very delightful.
Ironically, when putting the bikes together, I broke the bolt that holds my seat post up. So I couldnt fasten the seat, and was forced to ride it with the seat at least 5'' lower than usual. It really did feel like I would hit my chin with my knees. Thanks to a little french mechanic we passed in a small street in a vuillage later in the day, he was so pleased to be able to help with a perfectly fitting bolt. He spoke no english, and I never learned the french word for bolt - but he got the message and was so helpful. We were grateful to God for putting him right where we needed him.
The last few k's went very slowly. We had been travelling for 28hrs or so, and were hanging out for a decent sleep in our Hotel room. Cergy is on the western outskirts of Paris, but we had to ride in a very large semi circle from the north east side of Paris where De Gaulle airport is, to get to the western fringe. The Hotel was just okay, but a pleasant refuge for us after such a long trip.We made the mistake of opening the single tiny window for air, and went to bed. Julie woke next morning to a hand reaching in through the window, and at her startle dexclamation, the arm disappearede, as did our precious camera! I leapt to the window, but no sign of anybody. I went to the rear door - but it was security locked overnight, and there was no exit for anybody. Goodbye camera. It was a sad beginning to our trip, butr we decided almost instantly that it was gone, and fretting would not get it back.
We set our faces for Breteuill that morning in the hope we could buyt another one.
Moving To the Start.2
Please be patient - have only today found a computer for public use. The detail is coming. k
Friday, June 1, 2007
Moving to the Start.1
Its Kelvin and I am in Hong Kong having just arrived at KaiTak - a most beautiful sight from the air as we approached Hong Kong from over the South China Sea. Julie should be in Singapore by now. The most asked question to date is why are we travelling in separate aircraft? Its not because we think that if a plane goes down then one of us will survive. There is no substance to the rumour that Julie is an unpleasant travelling companion. I have a free fair on Qantas, and Julies seat on Singapore Air was the next best price! For all those who are interested, we finally got to bed at 1am last night, after doing all that has to be done to wind up our Salvation Army responsibilities, packed all the bikes in boxes and all the panniers (we have 6) and loaded the backpacks with as much weight as was bearable for the 'carry-on'. We were up again at 5am, and in the car just after 6am.
I was hi-jacked at the office at morning tea yesterday. I went down at the usual time, curious that there seemed to be more than normal for morning tea, and all very promptly on time. When I got relaxed with a cup of tea in my hand, the very sinister Trevor Nicol emerged with a set of electric hair clippers attached to a long extension cord, and then Cheryl Drayton, the resident amateur hair cutter (she cuts her husbands hair and only does one style - all off!). I was co-erced into having a virtual head shave. I chose to submit rather than have to fight my way from the tea room. I knew when I was a beaten man. The cameras emerged, the faces leared with sadistic grins as Cheryl proceeded to shave my head to a close No.2 with the skill of a seasoned shearer. If you know how conservative I am, you would understand how I felt attending my final scheduled noon meeting for the day! I didn't pack a comb. Actually I quite like it now, but it is still a shock whenever I pass a mirror. Cheryl could make a fortune in many a sheaers hut with the clippers, but she insists on being a loyal secretary at our office!
Each of us was about 10kg over the 20kg baggage limit, and we prayed for a lovely check-in person. Anyway, it all went smoothly, and Julie was also able to check through the tent as well (they didn't seem to bother about our 'excess'). We were in, breathing a whole lot easier. We had a nice breakfast together before the final goodbye and "Hope to see you in Paris" as we went our respective ways. Julie comes into Terminal 3, and I discovered I come into a completely different Terminal a bus ride away. It was only as we parted that I realised Julie had the bike tools on her plane, so I would have to carry the bike somehow to meet her on her arrival. I'll work on it when I get there!
So I now have 3 hours to kill before my Cathay Pacific 12 hrs to Paris. The weather is now 'sunny' in Paris for tomorrow, so all looks good.
For those who haven't come in to Hong Kong, it is one of the engineering marvels of the world.
Until next internet cafe (oh, by the way - its free here at KaiTak!) its 'bye' for now. Thanks for the prayers from back home. K
I was hi-jacked at the office at morning tea yesterday. I went down at the usual time, curious that there seemed to be more than normal for morning tea, and all very promptly on time. When I got relaxed with a cup of tea in my hand, the very sinister Trevor Nicol emerged with a set of electric hair clippers attached to a long extension cord, and then Cheryl Drayton, the resident amateur hair cutter (she cuts her husbands hair and only does one style - all off!). I was co-erced into having a virtual head shave. I chose to submit rather than have to fight my way from the tea room. I knew when I was a beaten man. The cameras emerged, the faces leared with sadistic grins as Cheryl proceeded to shave my head to a close No.2 with the skill of a seasoned shearer. If you know how conservative I am, you would understand how I felt attending my final scheduled noon meeting for the day! I didn't pack a comb. Actually I quite like it now, but it is still a shock whenever I pass a mirror. Cheryl could make a fortune in many a sheaers hut with the clippers, but she insists on being a loyal secretary at our office!
Each of us was about 10kg over the 20kg baggage limit, and we prayed for a lovely check-in person. Anyway, it all went smoothly, and Julie was also able to check through the tent as well (they didn't seem to bother about our 'excess'). We were in, breathing a whole lot easier. We had a nice breakfast together before the final goodbye and "Hope to see you in Paris" as we went our respective ways. Julie comes into Terminal 3, and I discovered I come into a completely different Terminal a bus ride away. It was only as we parted that I realised Julie had the bike tools on her plane, so I would have to carry the bike somehow to meet her on her arrival. I'll work on it when I get there!
So I now have 3 hours to kill before my Cathay Pacific 12 hrs to Paris. The weather is now 'sunny' in Paris for tomorrow, so all looks good.
For those who haven't come in to Hong Kong, it is one of the engineering marvels of the world.
Until next internet cafe (oh, by the way - its free here at KaiTak!) its 'bye' for now. Thanks for the prayers from back home. K
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