Thursday, June 28, 2007

Darlington to Durham - 36k - Wed 27 June

Ferryhill and Deanbank are two small villages co-joined like siamese twins, about 12k south of the great city of Durham. Around the time of WW1 and after, they were villages that were focussed almost entirely on the 'pit' - the coal mine a few hundreds yards down the hill from the centre of the tiny village of Deanbank. In those days, a family by the name of Price lived in the village. Mrs Price was a Godly lady, who ensured her daughter Eva went to the local Church sunday school. Later, a baby brother (Frank) joined the family, but by then things had changed. Mr Price was a serious drinker, and known for his more than occasional drunkenness. The Price family lived next door to another family whose name was Woods. The Woods were a large family, and were active members of the local Salvation Army at Deanbank. It is not clearly understood how, but one Saturday night, a slightly drunken Mr Price found his way into the Gospel meeting being held at the little Salvation Army at Deanbank. It was a time of great change in not only his life, but the life of his entire family. That night he responded to the call of the Gospel, and he surrendered his life to Jesus Christ. In Salvation Army terms, he 'got saved', born again and when he came home that night he was a changed man, never to go back to what he used to be. Next morning the Salvation Army Captain visited the home, and urged Mrs Price to begin attending the Salvation Army meetings with her husband as a means of encouraging him to keep committed to the decision he had made at the Altar the night before. Mrs Price did, and followed not long after by their daugher Eva Price, who met her husband there also (Bob Pearson), and were married, becoming very committed Salvationists in Ferryhill/Deanbank for the remainder of their days.

Whether it was the influence of the Woods family next door will never be known. Staunch Salvationists as they were, they were not without their days of tremendous grief. On 3 April 1915, just weeks before the landing of British and ANZAC troops on the shores of Galipoli, Mr and Mrs Woods (Francis and Johannah) stood weeping at a tiny grave in the Ferryhill cemetery. There 6yr old son had died, and was being buried in the family plot. Not long after, they were waving goodbye to their precious eldest son Frank who was going off to war with the British Expeditionary Force to fight on the western front between the Somme and La Marne. Would they lose another son? But further grief was to follow. Mr Woods was back at the family grave in 1921. His wife Johanna had died, and he again shed tears as she was laid to rest beside her infant son. She was 48 years of age. Her son Frank had not long returned from the battlefields of France, and was recovering from injuries. Their grieving was not yet over. In 1924, Mr Woods and son Frank stood again at the family grave, with members of the local Salvation Army, this time for the burial of the two daughters of Frank and Johanna - Annie and Evelyn were both 24 years of age, both lives being cut tragically short by tuberculosis. The extent of grieving of this Woods family cannot be imagined. But in the long shadow of this terribly prolonged period of grieving, a precious little baby girl was born, in 1923 to Frank, who had married not long after his return from the battlefields of France. They gave her the name Betty, who would become the second eldest child in a family of 8 children.

Betty Woods was 5 years of age when she, with her Mum and dad, waved goodbye to the remainder of the Woods family at Deanbank to start a new life in Australia. They came to Melbourne, then to Adelaide before settling at Maitland in NSW in 1928. Her Dad Frank only knew life in the pit at Deanbank, so he joined the pit in Maitland, where he served the remainder of his working life. But only a few years after he moved to Maitland, tragedy was to strike yet again. His wife, and now mother of 8 young children tragically died of the Flu, aged 36 years of age. Betty was the eldest daughter, and at 14 years of age left school for ever to become 'mum' to her 7 brothers and sisters, the youngest of whom were twins of 18 months of age. Her Dad eventualy married again, and the children grew, and Betty herself met a young Military man named Les from Tamworth, fell in love and was married, having a further 6 children of her own.

Betty Woods and Eva Pearson are still alive. Eva still lives in Ferryhill. Her wonderful husband Bob was 'Promoted to Glory' (a Salvation Army term) some 25 years ago, and Betty and Les were divorced over 30 years ago. Les died at 84 years of age, but Betty at age 85 still lives in Canberra, attends faithfully The Salvation Army and is matriarch of her family of 6 children, 26 grandchildren and at least 15 great grand children.

When we left Darlington on a very wet morning on 27 June, we were expected at Ferryhill at about 11am at the home of Mrs Eva Pearson. The ride to Ferryhill was not all that memorable. We persevered with the wet track, and found ourselves going straight up the highway towards Durham, until we came to the little village on top of a hill - Ferryhill. We found Eva's home, and when we knocked, one of the world's most wonderful and gracious ladies answered the door. It was a most wonderful pleasure to meet Eva, and to spend quality time with her. She had prepared lunch for us - homemade silverside pie, vegetables and then homemade raspberry pie with cream, and tea. We listened to the stories of the old Ferryhill and Deanbank, about life at The Salvation Army, about life living next door to the Woods family, and the changes in the village since those days.

She then took us to the cemetery to take us to the Woods family grave. As Julie stood at a distance talking with Eva and the cemetery caretaker, I came aside and sat at the two headstones with the names of 6yr old Walter, his mother Johanna, his two sisters Evelyn and Annie, and an extra - his Dad Francis who died in 1935 and is buried there with his wife and three children. In my moments of quietness beside this precious family grave, I fought my own tears and wrestled with my own sense of grief in trying to imagine the sadness of a mum and a dad, and a family at the tragic loss of family under these circumstances.

As we reluctantly rode away down the hill past the 'pit' on the way to Durham later that afternoon, I could hardly see for the tears that suddenly welled in my eyes again, as I recalled in my imagination again the scene at the Woods family graveside all those years ago - my grandfather Frank, holding his newborn baby Betty - my mother - in his arms as he grieved the loss of his two sisters to an incurable illness.

It was no time at all before we rolled down the long hill into the beautiful city of Durham, the towering Cathedral and Durham castle standing over us as they have stood for nearly a thousand years. It was far too wet to set up camp in a soggy camping ground. We were also told there was no accommodation left in the city because it was University graduation, but as only the Lord can provide, we found the last room in town at the Gilesgate Moor Hotel just on the edge of town, and tucked ourselves in out of the rain and cold.

As happens in England, it took no longer than our showers for the the sun to break through, and the skies to clear, giving us several hours to explore the town before having a great night's sleep for our long trek to Bellingham (pronounced 'Belling-Jam') on the edge of the Scottish border the following morning. We went to bed with fervant prayers on our hearts for a dry track all the way to Scotland!

York to Darlington - Tues 26 June - 83k

The rain stopped at 1am, to allow the ferocious winds from the NW to blow the place around! We were riding NW, weren't we, when dawn came! We left the caravan park that was now very much empties of caravans, and noticed with alarm that the Ouse was now at the very lip of the top of its banks - any higher by inches and the caravan park would be under. We rode out of town - no rain - but a very strong, cold wind from the arctic, in our faces for the next 80k!

We planned to get to Darlington, to put us in good stead for the visit to Ferryhill the next day, ythe place of my mother's birth.

It was a gruelling day, and little to say for it. The winds were strong, Julie tucked in behind me which was the best place to be, and I ground it out at about 12-15kph all day in the low gear becasue thats all I was capable of in the conditions. We did 20k segments, but between these it was head down, and it was little fun. The lovely villages along the way though were lovely, especially Thirsk where we sat in the town square huddled behind the Memorial to something, having lunch. We came into Darlington later in the afternoon. There were no camping grounds. We tried several Hotels, and finally found one - The Dalesman - it was more than ordinary, but the food nice, and an appropriate price. We were just glad to be in after a hard day on the road into the hard wind all day long. It was incredibel to see the news at night about all the toewns in Yorkshire that had gone under in the floods. A dam in Sheffield had a crack in the dam w;;, and had to be released slowly, which only flooded other towns.

It was remarkable really that we were able to get out of York unscathed, and get so far when for most of Yorkshire it was serious flooding, with people out of homes, and much damage to housing. Worst in history some reports said. Its all the talk over hear anyway. But it was a rain free day!!

York - Day Off - Mon 25 June

We slept in until 9:30am, which is not a bad record considering that it continued to pour and pour with rain all through the night. The little tent stood firm and still, a credit to the 'Pro-bike' crew who made the tent. It remained dry and actually warm. We had lunch lined up with friends from a town to the south, but due to the now hazardous flood warnings and roads cut by floods in Yorkshire, we agreed it was best to defer lunch.

Julie and I stayed in the tent for another hour or so wondering what to do, feeling disappointed that on the only day we had to see \york, it was teeming with rain. So at 11am or so we said 'blow this', got dressed and walked the 1k to town, getting totally saturated as a result. We checked out the TIC and then the Library, both warm dry places, and had a great 'Sunday roast' with Yorkshire pudding at a local 'pub', all for just a few pound, a great deal. That also warmed us up. After some quality internet time at the Library, we walked the streets ofYork, dodging rain under shop awnings etc. It was not the best but it was enough. At 5:15pm we went to Evensong at the great York Minster. This was not only dry, it was a most wonderful experience. The choir sang unaccompanied the verses of Psalm 119 from 72 to 104. It was just Heavenly for these two Pilgrims. We felt it was the best way to appreciate and value York Minster, as a worship and spiritual experience. The high vaulted ceilings, and centuries old beautiful stained glass windows the likes of which we have never seen came alive in our faith and hearts as the scriptures were read of Jesus seeking the lost, the choir singing and the congregation reciting the Apostles Creed and the truths of our faith. This was worth the whole day, and we really didn't need any other experience of York.

As we walked home we checked out the thousand year remains of William the Conqueror's original castle, and walked along the river Ouse which bisects York, and which any hour was expected to break its banks. If it did, our home for the night would be floating!

We went to bed wondering, but not worried. Many of the caravans had deserted during the day. The rain kept falling, but we expected to be there in the morning, but praying that tomorrow would be fine for our trip to Darlington. We are truly tired of the wet weather. It has rained on us in various degrees every day for a fortnight.

We actually had a cold night in the tent. The ground was too sodden, and I guess it was the intense cold coming up under the tent, but we remained dry inside. It was another good day though, and we went to bed with a happy heart, grateful to God for all his many mercies to us.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Burton Upon Stather (Scunthorpe) to York - 108k - Sun 24 June

I think the last Blog finished when we had reached Scunthorpe. Scunthorpe is not the place to come to for holidays. It was a stop off point for us on the fional run to our campsite at Burton Upon Stather, a beautiful old village from almost Norman times, just north of 'Scunt', and a mile or so from the ancient village of Normanby.

Anyhow, before I go further, Julie has absolutely insisted that I tell you that I fell off my bike in one of the main streets of Scunthorpe! We arrived looking like drowned rats. I think I have told you about the very wet run from Lincoln during the morning. Once we hit the city centre of Scunthorpe, outside the library of all places, the sun broke through and it was quite hot. So we took coats off and dried out in little time, changed the socks using the entry to the library as our change room! I hung my gloves on the bike, chianed them up and went for a 'pie and chips' at the local market, and by the time we came back, the gloves were dry, as were the bikes, panniers etc.

We headed up the long street of shops for a grocery store to buy the few supplies for the night, not knowing we had passed into a strongly ethnic part of town. The one gracery store we found was all in arabic, so we kept looking. I think the next one was polish, and when Julie came to the counter with what she thought was milk, the man said @I suspect you want milk - but that isn't milk!' So she was shown the 'taciate' - should have known all the time - from a polish speaking cow of course!

Then we tried to find our way out of town. Becasue the sun was shining, we knew where north was, so we went the way the shadows indicated and came to the 'corner fatale'. Instead of stopping to check traffic both ways, I simply tried to balance the bike for longer than a brief pause and stationary speed, and overbalanced the wrong way (ie the side with the shoe still clipped to the pedal). Julie really was concerned for a few seconds, thinking what next could he break, but when I bounced up like a youth she kept insisting from that instant that it had to be recorded for all to know - that the cycling legend fell off his bike, once again. Only pride was injured I am glad to say.

The camp at Burton Upon Stather is the best we have encountered. It is five star, with just a few people there. The amenities are far better than most homes, and it was a lovely night, and a sadness to have to make the long hard climb up to the village from the river where we were next morning on our long haul to York.

For the next 20k we wandered across north Lincolnshire countryside, and then looming into view was the magnificent Humber Bridge across the Humber River at Hull. It is 3k across, and froma distance looks like a mirror of the Golden Gate. It is a magnificent sight, and it was in view for miles and miles.

We hit the bridge at the same time as the Hull half marathon which was coming from the north as we crossed from the south. We stopped briefly at the TIC at the northern end, and got final instructions on the NCN 65 (National Cycle Network) which was to take us the final 80k to York, mostly by off road means.

Then it started to rain, and as I write 24 hours later, it has NOT STOPPED RAINING HEAVILY CONTINUOUSLY (emphasis mine!). We rode all day in the rain. I had a flimsy photocopy of the page from Lonely Planet of the NCN 65, and we had small occasional signposts to follow. We did just about every village between the Humber and York, and a lot of it off track. At one point we were so wet and cold we stopped at a church to eat. The doors were unlocked so we went in and sat in the back pew to have sandwiches and bananas and apple. We left a note of gratitude. Then back into the rain again. We cut through sheep paddocks, along river banks on single dirt tracks (all NCN 65), we had thistles and nettles brushing our bare legs as we negotiated this thing called a Cycleway. We rode through mud tracks, avoided cows in our path, over riverways and through endless gates, and then finally got totally lost near Selby, still some 39k to York.

I wanted to hit the main highway and get out of this mess, but we met two nice english cyclists who had just come from York on the NCN 65 and said it was really worth doing (apparently we had been through the worst). So we gave in to it, and with a minimum of further fuss, found ourselves on a normal bike path alongside the highway, which then diverted across lovely country on a rail trail all the way to York. There were no hills today after the Humber, but half the rail trail was dirt (mud in our conditions) until near York where it became bitumen.

We arrived after some 108k of mostly wet weather. It was 6pm, and we had ridden well all day despite the conditions. Julie especially did it 'in her stride' and was riding well right into York. We were though, like frozen, wet chickens. The final route took us right across the York race track, and into the old walled city whose origen dates back to AD71 and Roman occupation.

We set up the tent in the rain, and after showers etc walked the 1k into town. The rain eased a bit. But overnight it dumped with a vengeance. The tent (praise the Lord) is very dry and warm inside, so we and the gear are fine. It rained all night, and the talk this morning is of the river rising and flodding the camping ground. It has rained all through the day.

We slept in despite this, and got up about 9\;30am this morning (our day off). At about 11am we said 'blow it' we are going out, so we have cruised the inner old city despite the rain. We will attend evensong at the great Cathedral tonight. We are praying for the Sovereign God to influence the weather sufficiently overnight to give us a dry track tomorrow.

Mum - tomorrow we hit County Durham (my mother's birthplace) and expect to check out the little village of Spennymoor where you were born.

Thats more than enough from me this time. York is great despite the rain. We hit over 1800k yesterday, just more than 50% of the total k's we will do. We have done 3 weeks, and have 4 to go. We are in great shape and high spirits. We laugh a lot. We send our love to all at home. With love....k & J

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Lincoln to Scunthorpe (Burton Upon Strather) - 60k - Sat 23 June

As of writing, today is not finished. We are at Scunthorpe, a few miles short of Burton Upon Strather.

We left Lincoln this morning in heavy rain. Its no fun heading out in the rain. We stood near the Cathedral for a while to let the worst of the heavy downpour pass, but eventually we had to hit the road north out of town. The weather being what it is, we took the A15 which is ramrod straight for the 45k north to Scunthorpe. Our camp site is at Burton on Strather a few miles further up the river. We cant wait to get there.

Leaving Lincoln was difficult. It is such a glorious place, packed with history. We no sooner left town in lighter rain, than we could see and hear the signs of thunder and lightning overhead. We were just a few miles out on the road and it bucketed and bucketed down. Only cyclists know the horrid feeling of the wet backside that feels awash, the shoes instantly filled with water, and completely drenched. We were covered as best we could, and just kept head down and cycled on. Visibility was not great, but we banked on the predictability of english weather in that it could be sunshine in ten minutes. Well.......it rained on and off, then it bucketed down again, and the annoying this was that just a few miles to our left the sun was shining on the fields!

Anyway, the road was flat, the wind was mostly behind us, and we just again put the hammer down and went for it, doing a slightly better average than the day before, but for not as long.

We got into Scunthorpe totally wet and drenched. We found the centre, outside the library, changed our socks, the sun was now out(!) and we took coats off and started to dry.

We have camped in the library in the near free compueters, and will leave soon for the beautiful Burton on Strather where our home will be tonight.

We hit York tomorrow, and a day off on Monday. We are aiming for Evensong in the York Cathedral tomorrow evening.

Our thoughts and prayers are with you, everyday. Love K&J

Kings Lynn to Lincoln - 105k - Fri 22 June

We decided that because there was so much offering at Lincoln to see, and because the weather is bad at least to lowsy at best, we would hit the main road all the way to Lincoln, and bi-pass the towns of Kings Lynn and Boston along the way as per the original plan. It was a wet night, and we packed up in the rain and headed off with heads down shielded from the rain.

We crossed over the River Ouse for the last time and headed west, again with a favourable breeze behind us, and with the road still as flat as a pancake! Julie led today all the way, and we did our best days average since starting our ride!! She rides really well on the flat - she is not keen on the hills, but for now - no hills!

We also decided to stay in a B&B in Lincoln, because the planned camping ground was several k out of town, and that would not make it easy to get in tot he Castle and Cathedral late in the day as planned, especially in the wet.

So we 'put the hammer' down, and rode having the time of our life. At twenty k and forty k we would stop and drink and have some M&M's, and then get back into it. We stopped after about 60k at a little village of Swinehead, just off the highway for lunch. It had a most outstanding Church in the centre of village that we could see for miles before, but also a centre memorial to war dead, including a set of stocks from days of old. As soon as we prepared lunch, the rain bucketed down on us, and we finished it standing under the awning of the church hall.

We set sail to Lincoln, as as we approached Lincoln from the east, it was wet, and the road started to introduce some hills, and much to Julie's disappointment, it chewed away slightly at the great high average that she was so proud of. We found our way into Lincoln. It is basically a boring large town, but perched high up on the hill in the centre is the Castle and Cathedral both started by the orders of William the Conqueror in 1068.

We had to head for the Cathedral because we knew our B&B was just down the road. We went through the centre of town, and met the really old village just inside the old walls, then straight up ''Steep Street'' - the famous steep street street named appropriately, and made our way to the B&B dripping wet but happy and spirited. After a bath, we explored the Cathedral and the old town which is so beautiful and ornate, and then had tea at the Aussie pub ''The Walkabout'', meeting a girl on staff from Wollongong. We asked why is she here when she could be home surfing - she said she was asking herself the same. It was pouring with rain outside.

It had been a great day. While the rain came down, we made our way back up 'Steep Hill', and then the few hundred yards to our B&B for the night. The Cathedral is bigger then Ely Cathedral. It is just magnificent, and when we attended there tonight before dinner, we just missed Evensong, but were given a lovely tour of the building with insights into its wonderful history.

Its been another great day. Without doubt, Julie's best day on the bike - 108k of magnificent riding with all her panniers and back pack. She has really improved in the cycling stakes.

We had no trouble getting off to sleep! Thanks for all the thoughts and prayers from back home. We really are doing fine. We realised today that in just 5 days, we will bash our way over Hadrian's Wall and enter Scotland! Today we hit 1600k or thereabouts. We give thanks to God everyday!

Ely (Little Thetford) to Kings Lynn - 51k - Thurs 21 June

We were keen to get into Ely and spend quality time. It was a just a few k on the bike, and falt all the way. Ely Cathedral is just a stand-out, but so is this beautiful of beautiful villages. Origianally known as the the 'Isle of Eels', it was an island in the marshy swampland before the fens were drained and banked and now beautiful flat farming land for hundreds of square miles. It was and still is famous for its eels. And this is another story. Eels are a delicacy apparently. Look this up on the net. Its fascinating.

It is also the birthplace of Oliver Cromwell, who lived here and worked here as a Collector of Tithes before his political ambitions were realised. We visited his home, which now houses the Tourist InformationCentre.

We also took Julie's bike to the Ely bike shop for repairs to the brakes, which happens to be owned by Mark Zonski(please forgive spelling of surname) who is the World Champion indoor sprint cyclist from last years Masters Games. He sends his regards to our local champ at Parramatta Bike Barn, Geoff Stoker with whom I ride each Saturday. We explored the beautiful town. The village markets were happening in the square, we strolled down to the water of the great river Ouse with its ducks and canal boats, and then up the hill to town again and explored and admired the great Cathedral of Ely. To leave this beautiful village after many hours of exploration was difficult. We are not tourists, but pilgrims. We are on a journey of discovery and also spiritual fulfillment. To stand back and try to take in the majesty of this massive and inspiring piece of medievil architecture was very challenging due to its immense beauty and sheer size. We wonder today how men without technology could build such magnificent buildings of lasting quality.

The bike shop fixed Julie's brakes, and refused payment. We meet these gracious people all the time. We left town, to follow the River Ouse to Littleport to the north, then literally alongside the river bank (built like a dyke in Holland - we didn't see the river much) to the village of Ten Mile Bank. We had lunch on top of the 'dyke' with view of the river, milk coffee included, then hit the main road after Ten Mile Band into King's Lynn. We were headed actually for North Runcton, a village just short of Kings Lynn, where we camped for the night, another nice camping ground. The weather was still overcast if not wet, and it rained again overnight. North Runcton is mentioned in the Domesday Book just after the Battle of Hastings, so has great history. It was granted freedom under King John in 1204, so we were camping in a place of great history.

It is a rich farming area. Again today, all flat all the way, with a kind breeze. Just wish the weather was better. We have hardly seen sun in England. But we are safe, warm, happy and keen to see and do more each day. Having a great time together.

Love to you all.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Olney to Ely - 90k 20 June

We were rather sentimental about leaving Olney. Last evening we celebrated \julie's 51st birthday at ''The White Swan'' - a lovely English pub in the centre of town. The food was outstanding. While there, outside the rain was that heavy it was bouncing on the roads and the footpaths. We were glad to be inside. Just prior to dinner we walked to the Church of St Peter and Paul, just a few hundred yards away on the edge of the village. This was John Newton's Church where he was Curate, and where he penned the great song of the Church ''Amazing Grace''. We were a little surprised to see the Church graveyard that surrounded the Church so overgrown with long grass. It was a very historic cemetery, and eventually we found Newtons grave. He shared the plot with his wife Mary, and also beside was his father in law (mary's father). We stood with great reverence at this spot, and marvelled at his story which was basically inscribed in the back of his granite tombstone. He called himself an 'infidel', against all the things of God, until by God's 'amazing grace' he was saved from this life of rebellion, and committed to Christ. Sadly, this is hard to read because it is jammed up against the side fence of the graveyard. His father in laws grave is also suitably inscribed with the great verse from Scripture ''For I know whom I have believed, and am pursuaded that HE (God) is able to keep that which I've committed unto Him, until THAT day''. Just meters from Newton's grave, a homeless alcoholic has made his temporary home. We spoke with him. A sad story, but he sang to me the words of amazing grace to the tune of 'The Rising Sun'. I have been humming ever since. My sadness is, I didn't meet a person in Olney who really knew the complete story of John Newton. I guess this explains the run-down state of the graveyard. His song is the one hymn of the church that has survived centuries, and is still the one song asked for at funerals even from families who have never stepped foot inside a church in their loives. Such is the power of this song that tells the story of an 'infidel' come follower of Christ.

We left the lovely Colchester House (Peter and Judith Blanbinsop) on another bleak and overcast morning, but with a wind to our backs and a flat road all the way to Cambridge. We made very good time. Julie cycles really well on the long flat roads, and is hard to keep up with! We managed our way through the substantial town of Bedford, then headed more north on the A421 with a rendevous with the A1 - a massive motorway running due north. We just merged in, wondering if in fact we were allowed on, but with a strong wind pushing us, we put heads down and tails up and sailed at 38kph for many miles. I sat behind Julie, and we didn't stop or slow until we had to vere off easterly for Cambridge. It was just superb cycling conditions. Trucks were a worry, because they physically lift and shove the bikes with the force of the wind they carry with them.

We still had breeze behind, although we had changed directions, and headed for Madingly, a small village a mile or so before Cambridge. Here we visited the American Military Cemetery and Memorial. It was an immaculate picture of US planning, not dissimilar to the great Omaha Military cemetery at St Laurent sur mer in Normandy. Then into Cambridge. We sat in the large park alongside the River Cam, watching the river boats, and hundreds of students just having fun in their various groups, playing games, wrestling, volley ball etc as we cooked up a storm for lunch. Milk coffee is our delicacy. We explored Cambridge a little, but we had to hit the road north now for Ely (Eelee). We decided to find a camping ground just south of Ely, so we could spend time at Ely next day.

Little Thetford was the place of rest for the night - the ''Two Acres Caravan and Camping ground''. It was just a camp site. But the toilets and showers were clean and hot, so we had no complaints. We were already in sight of the magnificent Ely Cathedral. The land is tarmac flat, hence cans ee for miles. The Ely Cathedral stands out for miles and miles across this countryside, a most wonderful and daunting sight.

This had been agreat day . We did 90k on the bikes, and all flat ground, and with wind to our backs. We were in good form and high spirits. Camping is surprisingly comfortable. The tent is snug, and despite the rain and wintry conditions, we have never been cold, damp or despondent in our tent.

We thank God for another great day!

Charlbury to Olney - 84k - Tues 19 June

We woke to what appeared to be the first blue sky we had seen since leaving Paris. It didn't last very long though, although it looked like the day would nevertheless be fine. It was dry overnight, and the tent came up looking dry by morning. We were certainly dry inside! We always enjoy a great breakfast. This morning was porridge with sultanas and bananas, then a near full english breakfast of pork and apple sausages, baked beans and eggs, followed by coffee late made on full cream milk (and we still lose weight!!).

It was Julie's birthday today, and we were headed to a B&B at Colchester House in Olney. We chose Olney because it is where the Church of St Peter and Paul is located, where the Rev John Newton was Curate for many years, and where he wrote the song of his life ''Amazing Grace''.

We skipped the showers this morning because they were too cold for enjoyment. We rolled out on the roiad north at about 9:30am. The toll of miles was accummulated in our legs. Neither of us felt like any more hills today. The news was though that for the next few miles it would be more hills, then we hit the flats for several hundred k's. We hit the hills rather unenthusiastically, but the views of the Cotswalds were spectacular. We went through the Tews, then turned east into a strong breeze on the B4031, all the way across country to Milton Keynes.

This was actually slow going, but as each village came and went we enjoyed the ruins, the beautiful lanes and even the canals that ran across this part of the country. We stopped on top of a small arched stone bridge to discover beceath several canal boats that just looked so lovely, with the large paddocks of sheep in the background, looking further back over the distance Cotswald country. It was all a very pretty picture.

We then passed through Croughton, where we came across a RAF airbase. The main entrance looked wonderful, with two US fighter jets parked on display out front. We stopped across the road for M&M's (part of our mid meal diet, with peanuts of course, or occasional snickers bars!) and fruit, while Julie took photos of the Fighter jets and the entrance of the Air Base generally. We then pressed down the road.

Minutes later we were passed by a Police car, and then a mile or so later we came across the Police car which had just pulled in to the drive way of a local Pub. I watched the Police get out of the car as I approached, but becasue they didn't go into the pub, I had feelings that something was up. They were waiting for us. We stopped ever so politely, and they asked us if we had been taking photos of the air base. Of course we had, and we thought there would be nothing wrong. They said they had been alerted by the US authorities that ''some teenagers on bikes were reported taking photos of the Base'' - hence a security alert went out!!

We said we were flattered to be considered teenagers, but by this time even the Police were smiling. I asked if we could take their photo, so the last memory we have is the Police posing just immediately the last photo of the US Fighters! We waved them goodbye, wondering what they will tell the US authorities (who, bybthe way, have taken over the RAF AirBase for their purposes.

We eventually made it to Olney, visited the church where JohnNewton served, and sat beside his grave reflecting on his life and the words that are now world famous. I want to say more here, but am told that my time on this computer is up.

We had a lovely dinner with Julie, a great B&B and were really sad to make our way out of town the next day.

Bath to Charlbury - 109k - Monday 18 June

It was sad to leave Bath. It was a great home for these two days. \it rained all through the night, and as we woke this morning it was still raining. \it would be a wet track today. We said our goodbyes, and headed out of town on the A4 for Chippenham. It was a nice flat run at first, but then it went into a steady 6k gradual climb that had us wondering at the end just how high the road could possibly go. It flattened eventually, and it was a great glide then all the way to Chippenham, through some beautiful countryside and lovely villages. It remained wet most of the day. We longed for the summer!

We took the A38 that became the A429 all the way to the ancient town of Roman influence at cirencester. It was flat road all the way, and quite good cycling but for the rain. We both rode really well. Julie's bike legs for the long flats have improved remarkably. She can really make her loaded bike move. We hit town at 1pm for lunch in the marketplace, despite the wet. There is not much of Roman left in Cirencester, except what has bee preserved in the museum. We rolled out of town in the rain, looking for the A417 to Lechlade ( a really beautiful place) - a town of a thousand flags! We pressed on, really quite weary of the weather now, just wanting to get in for the night. We were past 80k for the day, with still a bit to go. Then the hills started again past Burford.

We were keen for the signs to Charlbury, a beautiful town on top of the Cotswalds. It was a climb up to the town, just over 100k, with the good news that the Camping ground was a further 'mile' north of town, and it had to be at the top of a hill, assuring views across the Cotswalds.. It was a farm setting. A really beautiful place, and we cooked our tea and then went to bed with the sounds of baby goats bleeting over the hedge next to us, and the occasional sound of the donkeys not far from us. Apart from the cool water in the showers, this was a great place, and a comfortable night despite the wet. It is always great to arrive, and we gave thanks to God for yet another safe day.

Monday, June 18, 2007

Glastonbury to Bath - 47k - Sat 16, Sun 17 June

We left Glastonbury after a great night at the 'King William' - a great old Hotel in the heart of the city. We started the day with a great 'full english breakfast' in the small kitchen area. There was only Julie and I, and one other couple for breakfast. When the other couple left the small dining area, we had a visit from the Hotel cat. We ignored it as best we could, so to get our attention it jumped up on the table beside us and sat on the bread plate, as well as the lovely newly set cutlery. We wondered whether it had been sitting on our table before we came into the room! We had a tour of the ruins of the Glastonbury Abbey, and then set off for Wells, a lovely village with a massive Cathedral and Bishop's Palace around which the village of Wells has been built. The land was granted to the Bishop by King John in 1209, and has been gradually added to by Bishops over the years. Itr is a massively beautiful structure. The road to Wells was delightfully flat, and we enjoyed the pleasant ride for the 9k to Wells. The great old Hymn of the Church 'Rock of Ages, Cleft for me (a reference to Jesus) was written near here, and the tune in our Salvation Army Tune Book 'Wells' is used for this Hymn as well as other words composed for Salvation Army use (Holy Spirit, dwell with me.....) so guess what I was humming as we climbed our way out of Wells. We \had a great visit - met great people in Richard and Louise, and enjoyed the sunny stroll through the Bishops Palace grounds. The ride out was a shock - once we left the village it started to climb, and didn't stop until another 7k or so later. We were crossing the Mendip range though, so we should have expected it.

The ride to Bath was otherwise enjoyable, especially the approach to this ancient Roman city of hot Baths and spas, which was flat to downhill for many k's, with spectacular scenery of the ancient and approaching city. We were booked in to the White Hart Hotel, right in the heart of Bath. We found our way there fairly easily, and after a shower enjoyed a stroll through the inner city area.

After a great nights sleep, we enjoyed a full rest day today. It was a day of strolling and sightseeing - the Abbey, the Roman Baths, the Circus and numerous other great attractions of the city. The city is beautiful, and being Father's Day here it was full with families enjoying a clear day for a change. We had a lovely afternoon sleep, a BBQ in the back gardens of the White Hart, and will have a quiet evening to prepare for our 100k to Charlbury tomorrow.

The middle part of England has been deluged with floods. We are trusting that by the time we make it there the water will have subsided. Almost all of UK has been wet over these past few days.

We send our love to all - until you hear from us again. Thanks for your messages. Its great to hear from you. K&J

We are quite fine and relaxed. We have both lost incredible weight, which I guess is not surprising - no fat in our diet and strenuous exercise all day long. Nothing fits too well anymore!

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Crediton to Glastonbury - 96k (see previous) - Fri 15 June

Launceston to Crediton - 66k - and Glastonbury 96k)

It rained heavily all night at launceston, and this morning we headed off in the rain on a very gloomy morning. Actually, the disappointing thing about our two weeks so far has been the weather. \it certainly hasnt been summery, with mist most of the day, cold mostly and only occassional sun for very short appearances.

We climbed out of Launceston and hit the highway to Okehampton, but shortly after took the B road across country - just a series of more hills. Okehampton was a pleasant sight, but the drissle kept us with our heads down. Okehampton is a lovely village with historic castle ruins and lovely churches. For lunch we tried our first cornish pastry, eventhugh we were now in Devon. That and the date surprise made for a very delicious lunch in this lovely town. We were aiming for Tiverton for the night, a day of about 80k, but on checking at the TIC we discovered no camping grounds for miles. The one the dear lady could find was at the Salmaon Hutch at Crediton (actually near the tiny village of Uton). So we went there. Well - no showers, were there! But the lady in charge quickly assured us there was a cold water tap!! So on a day that was rain all day, and we worked very hard to find the Salmon Hutch out in the sticks outside Crediton over hills and down through ditches, and after confronting a loose, frisky cow on this narrow, grotty farm road (Julie said "I dont like cows"> I said "just ride straight for it". She said "but I dont trust coes". I said "Just keep riding". Well, the cow stared us down until about 20m range then when it was either her or us she bolted off down the road then disappeared somehow up through the hedge and out of sight.! Having dealt with the cow we resumed trying to find the Hutch with the one cold water tap. It was a nice setting beside a Salmon pond, but that was about it. We went to bed giggling away at the situation we found ourselves in. The cold towel wash was something we might recall for a while!

We left next morning again in the rain and the mud of the farm lanes, over the Salmon pond bridge, a railway line and then climbed the hill back into Crediton and out of town for the 100k to Glastonbury.

Ecery one we ask directions from adds "But its hilly, you know!" We say "we know, thanks!". On the way out of \crediton we asked directions to Tavistock. "Its this way - but its really hilly, you know!" Ah, they never fail! It was hilly!! It climbed from 4k out to about 14k with very little respite. We were at the very northern end of Dartmoor National Park, and we were high. We met some road cyclist coming up to our height from the other way (we were about to descend). One of them was walking!! So down we went and into Tavistock eventually, and passing in to Somerset. The country changed immediately. Gone were the beautiful fields, the lovely hedgerows, and......the hills.

We asked at Taunton which way to Glastonbury, and the garage man said "this way, and its a beautiful flat ride all the way!! And it was. So after 2 weeks of hills, and after about 65k so far today, we could put our heads down and really feel like cycling again. Julie did so well on this stretch, and when you consider her relative minimal miles on a bike before this trip, to have her rolling at 20-30kph all the way to \glastonbury was really quite a thrill.

However, she had three (!!) flat tyres today, so after the third we took time (we were just a few k from Glastonbury) to examine the tyre yet again, and this time found a small piece of wire about the size of half a staple embedded in her tyre.

We 'camped' at the King William Hotel last night at Glastonbury (a very new age place these days, the burial place for King Arthur and Queen Genevieve at the local Abbey) and have a short 40k to Bath and a day off as well.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Newquay to Launceston - 76k - Wed 13 June

From the top of the cliff the views were enchanting looking back on Newquay. Words cannot describe. Today we followed the traditional End to End section to Padstow - 20k of couast and about 8 massive climbs - each with its own corresponding descent. We should have known. The End to End book callls them 'rolling hills'. My bet is they did it in the car!!!

At Padstow we descended rapidly into this famous port, and joined the Camel trail (along the Camel river) to Wadebridge). It was flat and went for about 20k. We took the highway from there to Camelford, where we picked up the End to End route across the top of Bodmin Moor. It really was across the top - we were back to sheep on the road etc.

Homework for Grandad Stewart - on top of Bodmin Moor just north of Camelford is a disused airfield from WW2, with a RAF Museum - its out in the sticks, but has that feel like it was used for Bomber Command - you may wish to check this out for me. On top it was a beautiful run almost to Launceston, except this time into the wind. We felt on top of the world.

After a few k we wentr past a side road jam for sale box. I said to Julie we should buy some, so I told her to cycle on slowly while I went back to buy some jam. I bought 2 jars of Bramble and Apple jam (home made) and then set off for Julie, who was tired and I thought might be just down the road.

Well, it too me 8k at nothing under 30kph to catch her! I was flying in my big chain wheel and highest gear at the back, and never caught sight of her until about 8k later. I was so frightened that she had turned off, and we would never find each other. By this time we were back into hedgerows and narrow lanes, so the forwward visibility was limited. I told her I am glad she was only going slow!

We got into Launceston and went for the White Hart Inn - an old pub pub right in the centre of the village, next to the 900 year old castle. We checked it out before dinner, and went to bed. We had a room with a bath - just luxury.

It was first bit of rain yesterday, and this morning we have woken to steady rain. Oh well, the body is waterproof.

We bless our friend whom we refer to lovingly and effectionately as 'Pommy Pete' who at the last minute loaned me his Ortlieb panniers. They are not only water proof, but the front panniers have tremendous height and are not restricted by a flap. We pack food in the front panniers, and when we load every 2nd day or so, they are full to the brim with eggs, milk, fruit, snags, etc etc. Thanks Pete and Gretchen (I think the front panniers are yours Gretchen). We think of you everyday.

Well - it may be a while before you hear from us agin. We head to Tiverton today (we have cut off the top route of Cornwall) and are taking the direct route to Bath.

Today we skirt around the top of Dartmoor National park again, and get to Tiverton, then to Glastonbury, then to a well earned day off in Bath.

Thanks for your thoughts and especially prayers from back home.

We really are having a good time - but are feelingf the cost of 1,000k on the road and especailly the hilly raod!

Our love is reciprocated to you. God bless you too!

Sennen - Lands End - Newquay - 81k - Tues 12 June

We met two other cyclists at breakfast - wonderful people - Steve and Denise - who are doing the 'End to End' - but B&B'ing it. They left before us, and signed their papers etc at Lands End - we met them when we were on the way down, as well as another lone cyclist - he was headed for Newquay - Steve and Denise were headed to St Austell.

We loved Lands End - people had told us not to expect it to be anything - but the sun came out, the coast looked so enchanting, and their were lots of people about. A photographers paradise.

We were happy about paying for the official photo with our personal details on the historic sign post - and then reluctantly left for the 80k or so to Newquay on the northern coast of Cornwall.

First it was back to Penzance, and with the benefit of the nights rest, the return trip felt no where near as hilly as the night before.

We loved Penzance, and also reluctantly left, and decided to hightail it up the highway to Newquay, which we did in smart fashion. This was Julie's cruising terriory, and we made good time.

I will post more on this later. The fields of Cornwall are just enchanting, even from the highway.

I forgot to say, but on the Nroad between Torigni and St Lo where we shouldn't have been, we were unceremoniously escorted off by an RTA type van, who said it was too dangerous! We had our own lane, like the M2. They dumped us off on a country road with no verge, a bumpy edge singlre lane with traffic whizzing close by us - we felt ever so much safer!! Thanks french RTA.

In Britain no such restrictions - the traffic whizzes by - no verge but great roads.

Near Newquay we decided to pull off for 'chips' - and the lone cyclist who left about 1.5 hours befor us went by - we had somehow made up time and passed him during the day. All Julie's doing at the front of the pack!

Newquay is an equivalent to Surfers Paradise, except built like a typical smugglers cove. It was ceawling with uni students on a booze binge break. We were glad to be at the camp ground on the northern beach of Porth. It was a great night in the tent.

The next morning we walked the long long steep hill to the top of the Porth cliff (just for the magnificent views!!).

St Austell to Sennen (Lands End) - 92k - Mon 11 June

Have you got the impression that we are tired of the Cornish hills (well, Dorset and Devon can take the blame also).

We decided to minimise the miles as much as possible, so after climbing out of St Austell, we cut across country (a bad thing really - just means more country lanes that are even steeper than the roads) to shoot straight for Sennen, a few k from Lands End. We originally had St Just in mind, but it is 10k north of Lands End, and meant doing the ten k next day, then a long day on top. I rang ahead to a Hotel at Sennen, and it was wonderful. The best thing we could have done.

The trip to Penzance from St Austell was full of the usual ups and downs, and we were very weary of hills. But arriving at Penzance was a most wonderful exoperience. The first sight that greeted us was St Micheal's Mount to the north, a sister (brother?) to Mont St Michel off the shores of Brittany/Normandy). Penzance is just what I expected - the pirate capital of Cornwall with its mysterious narrow lanes, quaint old buildings and of course they play on the pirate thing.

We enjoyed traditional 'fish n' chips' at a 'Walk the Plank' type Hotel looking over the beautiful dock area of Penzance, where just near us a traditional Pirate ship was moored, flying the 'Skull and Crossbones' of the traditional pirate era.

It was a tiring 20k to Sennen of more hills, but the last 8k was nicely flat to dropping and I cruised all the way behind Julie at exceptional speed. I dont think we did under 30kph which is excellent going loaded with about 80kg including bikes between us (my bike weighs about 48kg including bike.)

We met two other cyclists who came in from a side road and who got in front rather cheekily - but with Julie at the front and me in the passenger seat (ie in the draught) we passed them and left them for 'dead'. Good cycling Julie.

Julie is finding her legs now. She found the early days very hard, We called it training for the UK. On the flats she can really cruise.

The Hotel turned out to be a delightful B&B - our room had ensuite and bay windows with beautiful views to Lands End.

Princeton to St Austell - 78k - Sun 10 June

Just more hills really. We got to Tavistock early in the morning, having now completed the crossing of the Dartmoor national park. It is very high of course, and across the top (while going up, then down, then up, then down.....) but across the top there are no fences - the black faced sheep roam free and are on the road. Some of the descents are done carefullay at 50kph in order to dodge the sheep sleeping on the road! A really beautiful experience, despite the many many hills.

At Tavistock we asked a Cornishman the road out of town. He mentioned Gunneslake up ahead (''you've got some hills in front of you'') - we heard this a thouasand times!. He said there is a climb of 1 mile into Gunneslake. Well we have news - we climbed 2k and thought that was the climb, then it plummeted. We crossed a lovely stone bridge and met the Cornwall 'welcome' sign, then it climbed, and climbed and climbed - this is granny gear stuff, and only for the mountain bikers ( ie Angus I kept thinking of you!). However, with my trusty granny engaged, I climbed it and when at the top again it was exactly 1.6k where I waited for Julie - then it climbed again until we left Gunneslake.

We just did more of the same until we made it to St Austell - the climb out of Lostwitherell was about 2k of sheer steep walls! We were late into camp, but enjoyed the dinner together. Too tired to walk over the hill to see the sea. We went to bed. Our tent is very snug and cosy. Good night!

Kennford to Princeton - 43k - Sat 9 June

The hills were so bad yesterday, we decided not to waste precious energy and ride through Dartmoor and then north to Launceston, only to ride south the next day. We set our sites on Tavistock on the west side of the Dartmoor, but having ridden all day through the middle of the great Dartmoor national park, where the hills made the hills in Dorset look like mere bumps, we felt Tavistock was enough for the day. However, we didn't make Tavistock, and turned in to the little village of Princeton where we discovered Dartmoor prison where the worst of the British prisoners are housed. We stayed in a camp ground part of the 'Plume of Feathers Inn'. Actually it was crawling with campers and we had a great time. More on this later. The total of 43k for the day may seem small, but it took all of about 9 hours of very hard labour between stops for lunch and drinks. This was a very tough day at the ranch!

Chickerill to Kennford - 97k - Fri 8 June

A massive day. We hit Dorset when we landed, and we have never ridden such hills - all coastline to Exeter (Kennford is just past Exeter). The hills seemed unrideable. It was hill after fill, and mostly several k long. The down hills were great but passed to quikly! I will post more on this later, but today was hills and beautiful beautiful scenery.

We got in to Kennford very late and glad to get to bed, after a sumptuous dinner made with perfection on the trusty Trangia!

Cherbourg to Poole/Chickerill - 51k - Thurs 7 June

It was a nice start to the day - we ate 'petit dejourner' and lovely coffee at a traditional french cafe looking over the English Channel. The ferry was massive, and we had lovely lounge chairs each. Julie slept. We met an American who offered to take out photo, who then said his father was an original US 101 Airborne, who was on board with us. What an honour to share time with this quiet gentle man who as a 20 year old dropped at night on to where Dead Mans corner is now. He told us of his friend who dropped onto the Green Devils and was 'slaughtered' (his words). He was also friends with the guy who was caught on the church tower (who incidentally hung for a day pretending to be dead because the germans still occupied the town. He eventually sneezed or something, was captured alive and then spent the remainder of the war as a POW.

We got into Poole and the remaining 51k to Chickerill was fine - no major hills. We did pass through the British Army Tank Training area - miles on both sides of us - we could hear the tanks churning away but couldnt see them, expecting any moment to see a British Leopard loom over the high mounds at the side of the road.

The drop into Weymouth is a sight to behold - the most beautiful sweeping views of Portland, but at 60kph it is too hard to stop for the photo with a queue of cars behind on a single lane!

The camp ground is a working farm on the water. All just beautiful. Great night. The most modern facilities we have ever seen. Each with a personal ensuite.

Torigni to Cherbourg - 120k - Wed 6 June

Another big day - we had to make up the 20k to St Lo, then get on the trail to Cherbourg. Today was DDay. St Lo was a famous battle site for the Allied armies under Montgomery. Otherwise, we found it a non event. The crawl out of St Lo was just staggering - it was steeply uphill for 2-3k and we didn't bother getting on the bikes!!! Once out of the town we were glad to get going. By the time we got to Carentan I had been promising Julie the flat lands of the Caretan where I knew the 101 US airborne troops were dropped on 6 June. The land is indeed flat and very watery - there were 89 US paratroopers drowned on the airdrop because the occupying forces had flooded the Caretan area. Their packs were too heavy once they dropped in to water, even shallow water.

By the time we got to Caretan there were initial sights of DDay activity. The days are mostly miserable thick clowd - today we thought it was actually raining but it was just really thick mist.

We got lost in Caretan and couldnt find our way out, but when we did we bumped into 'Dead Mans Corner' - now a museum of the US military, where the first paratroopers came down. We met one of them on the boat the next day who had dropped exactly there, his friend dropped a few hundred meters away right into the lap of the Green Devils, the crack German paratroopers, and along with others were sadly all killed. It was an honour to meet him.

We left Dead Mans corner and made our way to St Mere Eglise where the paratrooper came down and was caught on the church steeple. A dummy still hangs there. The town was crawling with DDay activity - US jeeps everywhere, men in US AA military uniform, trucks, marching up and down the street - it was really an electric atmosphere. We couldnt wait for the parade, but headed to Orglandes - a special place. It is a hardly known village on the way to Cherbourg - a military cemetery with more than 20,000 men of ages from 18 that I saw to mid forties. This is one of four 'cimetiere' for German soldiers in the area. I had previously been to the one at La Combe. This was a very sobering moment for us. I stood in the midst of this very sacred place where 6 soldiers shared the one headstone - all brothers, sons, fathers and husbands of german families there through no fault of their own. It was difficult for us to leave.

Cherbourg from here was a huge effort. It was over 100k today, and we never thought we'd get there. The climbs returned, and we ambled into town at about 9pm at night, the last few k frighteningly downhill. We had a great hotel on the waterfront to complete an historic day for us.

Falaise to Torigni (Not St Lo!) - 76k - Tues 5 June

Hey - I have a lot to catch up on! We are in Launceston (pronounced lawnston) from where Phillip Gidley King came from, (who named launceston, tas.). We have been on the road for nearly two weeks, but internet access is non existent. \went early to the town library today and it was closed for the day! Angus, why didn't Doug even offer to set me up with satellite for the Blackberry!

We had such a hard day this day that we got to villers bocage and rang ahead for a camp site at st lo and becasue there werent any, we diverted to \torigni. \it was in fact a beautiful flat almost downhill run for 20odd k, and \i sat behind \julie all the way at about 30kph. \she was keen to get there! When we stopped outside the caravan park, she promptly did what we call in the trade a 'dead ant' - she fell off from a standing still position. \fortunately she fell to the right (remember we ride on the right here in france) and fell heavily, bruising her 'butt' big time - she still has a bruise about as big as a foot print! Welcome to the world of cycling. It was a big day.

\we actually enjoy the tent. It is most cosy, and we cook and eat very well indeed. All facilities have been quite impressive.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Breteuil to Falaise - 101k - Mon 4 June

Sorry for racing these - we are in the back room of a very nice fellow who runs a computer store in Falaise who has allowed us to use his computer. We got in to Falaise after another 101k day. not so many strong hills as yesterday. except for the last 30k or so.The country is incredibly beautiful and stunning. We ride through village after village. Managed to buy a camera this morning from a kind of ALDI store. It will do. Faliase is very medievil - the birth place and castle of William the Conqueror - we camped below his magnificent castle 12th century. More later.

We are doing fine and in great spirits. Bikes are good - I busted the seat post bolt at the airport putting it together, so had to ride with my knees hitting my chin until I found a little french man in a village with the right bolt.

To day a short 85k to St Lo - tomorrow is DDay. Julie has just said it is a "7 hills ride" today. She really is doing fine with the bike. More later.

Cergy to Breteuil - 118k - Sun 3 June

Hey - this was a tough day, and due to not counting the k's on the map in preparation, this was a megga 118k day, but with grit and determination we made camp, set up the tent and had the billy boiling in no time. Tell you more later. Oh, by the way, we had our camera stolen early this morning through the window of our hotel room - Julie saw the hand in through the window. Sad about losing our first photos, but can't do much about it. More later.

Paris to Cergy - 75k Sat 2 June

Yes we made it - a great day - just need another day or so to fill you in. Julie is a legend on a loaded bike on massive climbs - not fair for day 1!

It took some 2 hours to get our bikes assembled in the Arrivals area, and answer all the questions of curious passers by. It was about 10am when we nervously ventured out front of this very large Terminal, and to try to get our bearings. Asking questions of airport staff didnt seem to give us clarity, so we took off anyway. We each had our Aussie flags proudly displayed off the back of our bikes.

We stopped at a garage to buy water, and then try to make sense of the french guys we were asking directions from. Julie seemed to make more sense of it than me, so we headed off again. We get very easily confused because the place seems to be all ring roads, and being on the 'wrong' side of the road now, everything seems back to front.

I tried to visualise the place from my visit some 7 years earlier, but we were coming out of a different Terminal, and nothing looked familiar. We headed off down this very busy main road that seemed to head into a tunnel for a long distance. It was single lane, and narrow, and after a nod from a passing Policeman to Julie's rapid gesturing, we set sail into the tunnel, me in froint and Julie following. I could hear her calling, but I couldn't make out what she was saying.

Only when we survived the tunnel alive, with trucks and all kinds of vehicles passing ever so closely, and we exited on a minor road to catch brerath, did Julie tell me that I lost my precious Aussie flag in the tunnel. I felt so disappointed, but there was no going back. So Val - I have been flying the Aussie cap you gave me - its almost a flag, and it is the last thing I attach to my rear pack everyday.

The trip to Cergy was so incredibly interesting. It was further thanh we planned, but once we found the village of le Mesnil just outside the airtport, we were immediatley orientated and on track. French villages passed every few k's. It was all very delightful.

Ironically, when putting the bikes together, I broke the bolt that holds my seat post up. So I couldnt fasten the seat, and was forced to ride it with the seat at least 5'' lower than usual. It really did feel like I would hit my chin with my knees. Thanks to a little french mechanic we passed in a small street in a vuillage later in the day, he was so pleased to be able to help with a perfectly fitting bolt. He spoke no english, and I never learned the french word for bolt - but he got the message and was so helpful. We were grateful to God for putting him right where we needed him.

The last few k's went very slowly. We had been travelling for 28hrs or so, and were hanging out for a decent sleep in our Hotel room. Cergy is on the western outskirts of Paris, but we had to ride in a very large semi circle from the north east side of Paris where De Gaulle airport is, to get to the western fringe. The Hotel was just okay, but a pleasant refuge for us after such a long trip.

We made the mistake of opening the single tiny window for air, and went to bed. Julie woke next morning to a hand reaching in through the window, and at her startle dexclamation, the arm disappearede, as did our precious camera! I leapt to the window, but no sign of anybody. I went to the rear door - but it was security locked overnight, and there was no exit for anybody. Goodbye camera. It was a sad beginning to our trip, butr we decided almost instantly that it was gone, and fretting would not get it back.

We set our faces for Breteuill that morning in the hope we could buyt another one.

Moving To the Start.2

Please be patient - have only today found a computer for public use. The detail is coming. k

Friday, June 1, 2007

Moving to the Start.1

Its Kelvin and I am in Hong Kong having just arrived at KaiTak - a most beautiful sight from the air as we approached Hong Kong from over the South China Sea. Julie should be in Singapore by now. The most asked question to date is why are we travelling in separate aircraft? Its not because we think that if a plane goes down then one of us will survive. There is no substance to the rumour that Julie is an unpleasant travelling companion. I have a free fair on Qantas, and Julies seat on Singapore Air was the next best price! For all those who are interested, we finally got to bed at 1am last night, after doing all that has to be done to wind up our Salvation Army responsibilities, packed all the bikes in boxes and all the panniers (we have 6) and loaded the backpacks with as much weight as was bearable for the 'carry-on'. We were up again at 5am, and in the car just after 6am.

I was hi-jacked at the office at morning tea yesterday. I went down at the usual time, curious that there seemed to be more than normal for morning tea, and all very promptly on time. When I got relaxed with a cup of tea in my hand, the very sinister Trevor Nicol emerged with a set of electric hair clippers attached to a long extension cord, and then Cheryl Drayton, the resident amateur hair cutter (she cuts her husbands hair and only does one style - all off!). I was co-erced into having a virtual head shave. I chose to submit rather than have to fight my way from the tea room. I knew when I was a beaten man. The cameras emerged, the faces leared with sadistic grins as Cheryl proceeded to shave my head to a close No.2 with the skill of a seasoned shearer. If you know how conservative I am, you would understand how I felt attending my final scheduled noon meeting for the day! I didn't pack a comb. Actually I quite like it now, but it is still a shock whenever I pass a mirror. Cheryl could make a fortune in many a sheaers hut with the clippers, but she insists on being a loyal secretary at our office!

Each of us was about 10kg over the 20kg baggage limit, and we prayed for a lovely check-in person. Anyway, it all went smoothly, and Julie was also able to check through the tent as well (they didn't seem to bother about our 'excess'). We were in, breathing a whole lot easier. We had a nice breakfast together before the final goodbye and "Hope to see you in Paris" as we went our respective ways. Julie comes into Terminal 3, and I discovered I come into a completely different Terminal a bus ride away. It was only as we parted that I realised Julie had the bike tools on her plane, so I would have to carry the bike somehow to meet her on her arrival. I'll work on it when I get there!

So I now have 3 hours to kill before my Cathay Pacific 12 hrs to Paris. The weather is now 'sunny' in Paris for tomorrow, so all looks good.

For those who haven't come in to Hong Kong, it is one of the engineering marvels of the world.

Until next internet cafe (oh, by the way - its free here at KaiTak!) its 'bye' for now. Thanks for the prayers from back home. K