We decided to get on the road and get to Bettyhill as soon as we could. We were booked in to the Bettyhill Hotel. We were on the road by 9:10am, quite a good start for us. We bought some groceries, and headed off into the strongest of winds from the north, perhaps north west. They were bitterly cold and blowing a gale, as only you could imagine coming from the north Atlantic. It felt like it was off the polar caps!
We were headed due north today, so we looked forward to the wind all day for the 75k trip to Bettyhill. We were on the A836, which just north of Lairg turned into a single lane road and remained that way all the way. I must say this was probably our most spectacular day, and that is a big claim. Words can hardly explain the sheer beauty and majesty of the mountains, the glens (valleys), the rivers and the paddocks, farmhouses of stone and miles of stone fencing at times.
Our first goal was the Inn at Crask, reputedly the coldest place in Scotland. I said to Julie it can't be right - it has to be the coldest place on earth! It was cold, and we laboured happily into the wickedly cold wind, because the scenery was so spectacular. We initally followed the edge of Loch Shin for a while, then the Strath Tirry (river). The beautiful mountains loomed all around, especially Ben Klibreck at over 3000ft to the north east of Crask. We had to keep stopping for photos. The first 20k or so from Lairg was a gradual and continual climb in altitude. With the wind also, we were doing between 9-16kph, mostly in our lower gears. It wasn't hard, but the wind was a little wearing at times.
Crask seems to be in the far reaches of a wilderness. We passed straight through, not wanting to stop due to the cold wind. The views though were simply spectacular, so we frequently stopped to take photos as best we could. From Crask we followed along the Strath Bagastie until we came to the little and extremely attractive hamlet of Altnaharra. The previous 15k or so was done at great speed because the gradual incline had turned into a slight descent all the way to Altnaharra. We were both flying in our large chain rings, making excellent time and enjoying the cycling immensely.
Just through Altnaharra we turned east on the B873 that follows the entire length of Loch Naver (part of Strath Naver). Guess what - we had the gale behind us now - so we were both in our big chain rings and powering with the help of the wind. The views were so lovely - across the loch, up the surrounding mountains and into the fields loaded with sheep. We also had loose sheep on the road, so we had to be extremely careful. After about 12k the road turned north, and we were back into the wind, which seemed to get gradually worse the closer we got to Bettyhill.
We still followed the River Naver, all the way to Bettyhill, still 30k to the north. We were riding past special viewing points that drew attention to the terrible things that happened in the early 1800's with the clearance of familes and entire communities from the homes and fields that they worked, so that the owners could turn their land over to sheep grazing. This happened over large parts of Scotland, but Bettyhill was the focus of the scandallous actions that affected so many thousands of Scottish families.
Despite the howling cold wind, we loved the ride into Bettyhill. There were some strong inclines, but also some nice descents also. The views along the river valley were really something special. The closer we got to Bettyhill the more spectacular and rugged the landscape became.
We finally met the A836 coming from Tongue to the west (where Bonnie Prince Charles made his escape after the Battle of Culloden), with the final few miles into Bettyhill just a spectacle of sheer beauty and rugged coastline. The wind just about blew us to a standstill, but we made the final 2k 'moderate climb' up the side of the rugged coastline to the tiny but scattered buildings making up the Bettyhill community.
The beautiful old Hotel is situated right on top of the 'hill' with panoramic views over the rugged coastline of the Torrisdale Bay. Built in 1819 by the House of Sutherland, it was a coaching Inn which was popular with especially fishermen because the Strath Naver is one of Scotland's greatest salmon rivers.
This is rugged Scotland at its remote best. Everywhere we turned we saw a photo in it. We were glad to be very early today - in by 2:30pm - I think our earliest day. The Hotel is perched high, with great views over the northern rugged coast of Scotland out into either the Atlantic or the North Sea, or both. Maybe they join about here.
We too are perched to tomorrow get ourselves to John O'Groats - the furthest most point from Land's End on the southern tip of Cornwall. It is not over for us, but the 'End to End' for us has been a significant part of our Paris-Stirling adventure. It will be a great moment for us to touch the post at John O'Groats tomorrow. Heading east, we are hoping the n/west gale keeps up overnight to push us (for a change) all the way tomorrow.
We send our love to everyone. We are both fine, happy and conscious now our great adventure is reaching iyts final stages. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. K&J
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