Elgin to Croy - 50k - Sun 8 July

It was great to sleep in a little in our magnificent room with its views toward the Cathedral ruins of Elgin. We planned for a later than usual breakfast, and because Croy was only 50k away, we planned to leave late and also take time to enjoy the history trail of Elgin.

The sky was overcast, but the rains had stopped overnight sometime. However, our foe the wind from the west was blowing even more furiously, as if it knew it had limited time and it was giving its best before it blew out of 'puff'.

Elgin Cathedral was originally built around the 11th century, and like most of them has had additions and repairs over the years. In 1390, Alexander Stewart, the 'Wolf of Badenoch' plundered and burned both the town of Forres and Elgin, and ransacked the Cathedral, which required substantial rebuilding. In 1567 the roof was stripped of its lead to raise money, and in the 1600's the roof fell in. It eventually became a quarry and rubbish dump until 1824 John Shanks became its keeper, and he removed some 3,000 barrowfuls of rubbish. The ruins are today a most beautiful and magnificent sight, surrounded by its ancient graveyard, adjacent to the Bishops Palace, Biblical Gardens, Panns Port entry to the town and 16th century stone bridge that led to the ancient brewery.

We took time to enjoy all of this, and on the way out of town we stopped at Ladyhill, the site of the original Elgin Castle and now site of a tall monument to Gearge, the 5th Duke of Gordon from the 17th centry. From the site of the castle, the entire town can be seen. It was our last view of Elgin before we faced the horrid winds and set our faces toward Kilravock (pronounced Kil'rock) Castle at Croy, near the Culloden Battle field.

It was just another windy day, the winds feeling so much stronger today. However the blessing was - no rain. Today was the first day in a very long time when it was neither wet nor raining all day! We even rode toward patches of blue sky, and eventually had to take our coats off because it was too warm.

We stopped in at the lovely old town of Forres, which has a history much like Elgin. We stopped in a park for a light lunch. My front tyre was spongy yet again, so it required changing. We made coffee on milk with our magnificent Trangia cooking set, before facing the winds again for the final onslaught to Croy. From Forres we stayed on the A96 until the village of Auldern, and turned off on the A9101 that ran slightly west southwest towards Croy. At Auldearn is the famous Doocot battle site. I was keen to see this, but Julie is not so keen on battle sites. So I sent Julie ahead so I could spend a few moments checking out the site, but after she had ridden off into the distance, and I rode toward the battle site, I noticed to my horror that yet again my front tyre was virtually flat, and she had the pump and repair kit! So I had to chase her on a flat front tyre, which in her excellent cycling condition now was no easy feat!

I eventually caught her, and chose to keep pumping the tyre every few miles rather than change it out on the road in the windy conditions. Croy was just a few miles now, and we were keen to get there. We cruised through Cawden, ignoring its mint condition ancient castle for the sake of seing friends we hadn't seen for several years. At the little village of Clephanton we saw the first sign pointing to 'Kilravock Castle' and quite excitedly forgot the wind and headed the final mile before turning in to the long driveway running up to this 13th century castle, still owned by the Duchess of Kilracock.

Craig and Shona Snitch are Aussies who have committed their lives to Christian ministry with Teen Ranch in Scotland. They were part of our ministry team at The Salvation Army in Chatswood Sydney in the late 90's. They have four young children. Teen Ranch Scotland has taken out a lease on the Castle and vast grounds for the conduct of camps and other Christian ministries, focussing on young people. The Castle operates as a B&B and provides vital income for the ministry.

The Baroness is still alive, and resides nearby in an Aged Care Residence. The Castle is still furnished as she had it, with incredible furnishings and family belongings from down through the centuries of her ancestors. Mary Queen of Scots stayed at Kibracock Castle, and Bonnie Prince Charles visted and was hosted here on the night before the great and final Battle of Culloden. Robert Burns stayed here, and started a romantic liaison with Elizabeth Rose in 1787 (Rose is the family of ancestry) and is said to have composed the poem 'Highland Mary' under an oak tree in the very vast and beautiful gardens. The Rose family have lived continuously in the castle from the 14th century.

It was wonderful to meet up again with Craig and Shona, and renew our friendship. Shone gave us an extended tour of the castle, its rooms, staircases and the vast gardens. It was awe inspiring to stand in the vaulted attic where Mary Queen of Scots resided, and to walks it halls and huge rooms with walls covered in the portraits and drawings of family and ancestors of many centuries.

We came home in the daylight, but it was deceivingly after 10pm at night! News was that Robbie McEwin (Aussie) won the first full stage of the Tour de France, followed by the next great news that the sky over Scotland tomorrow will be entirley clear of rain or even cloud!

We head up toward the very north of Scotland over these next few days, and plan to stand for the photo at John O'groats on Thursday, having officially completed the 'Lands End to John O'Groats' cycle journey as part of our 'Paris to Stirling' marathon.

It may well be that we will be out of 'net'contact during this period, so we may not be able to post again until we get even possibly to Stirling.

Thank you for your continual thoughts and prayers. Julie and I are fine, and doing well in every way. We send our love to you all. K&J