Thursday, July 12, 2007

Evanton to Lairg - 54k - Tues 10 July

It was great to have the time to linger a while at the local Covenant Church cafe. Evanton is a very tiny village - with a shop, a Post Office, the Covenant Church cafe and thats about it. It has a number of houses, most of which seem very old but very quaint. On the hills and mountains up behind are thge deep and dark forests which was part of the movie set for Harry Potter.

We were quite cold in the tent overnight. The camping ground is quite a picture - beautiful lush green grass, and set alongside the River Glass. It wasn't until about 11:30am that after two cappacinos, scones and a good chat, we set off north on the road to Lairg.

This is very remote country now, and we are pushing now into the very north of Scotland. The wind was blowing a gale from the west nwest. We initially headed north east for a few miles, so had the benefit of the strong wind. We were on the B817, but just before Alness, we hit the B9176 that headed due north for Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.

The road gradually climbed, enough for us to be in lower gears, and we struggled slightly now against the wind. Just before the tiny hamlet of Achandunie, the road took a deep 12% dive, down a long way and over a magnificent stone arch bridge crossing the River Alness. As these things go, for every down there is a corresponding up, so from the bridge the road climbed at 12% for a mile or so. The amazing thing is that my younger apprentice took this 12% climb in her stride, and was just on my heels all the way up. I was in my lowest granny and working hard, but she told me at the top that she was still in her middle chain drive, much to my shame. Julie has developed great strength for cycling now. She can stay with me on most roads, and is even doing the climbs now without needing to get off.

This was a most spectacular ride. It is clearly snow country, and we could see the tops of Beinn Tharsuinn at 2200ft and Cnoc an T-Sabhail at 1800ft on both sides as we continued to climb ever so gently into the valleys between. We were headed for the inner reaches of the Dornoch Firth, and the ciewing point that was a favourite of the Queen Mother's.

The countryside was clearly spectacular, but so was the fabulous views to the east down on to the Dornoch Firth and out to the North Sea from our high vantage point. We had the best of mountains and the sea. We eventually came over what eventuated to be Struie Hill, and the viewing point. It was a breathtaking view, as the land fell away and we had sweeping views all the way up the Firth as far as the Bonar Bridge at the far western point of the Firth. We still had 10k to ride to get there.

The wind was blowing a gale from that direction, and such was its strength that as we headed down the long steep decline towards Ardgay, the wind actually slowed the speed of our bikes that we let coast downhill. There was a magnificent gorge with rushing water, over which we had to pass on a massive stone bridge and viaduct. We spent time here admiring the views. The landscape was just spectacular. It was a lovely but windy run all the way to Bonar Bridge, where we had lunch beside the Kyle of Sutherland (River) at the bridge linking Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.

After lunch, we hit the wind again. Still on the A836, we continued north and followed the Kyle of Sutherland as far as Invershin, where we admired the view of Carbisdale Castle, with the Rail viaduct crossing the road above us. Still 20k from LAirg, we had a choice of the 'highway' or the 'biway' - the biway being less steep seemed great to us. It was basically the old road that followed the River Shin, past Shin Falls where we stopped and admired the nice things in the Information centre. The road was a single lane only and well protected both sides with trees. I fell off the bike while looking back and up over my shoulder at the great stone walls of the 'highway' way above us. I went 'splat' in the bank on the side of the road, hurting nothing but my pride. Julie asked if I saw any balloons (a private Bike Barn joke). The answer was no!

Lairg is a remote little village on the very southern tip of Loch Shin. It is a very well kept secret. It is so pretty in the approach from the south with its cute buildings overlooking the waters of Loch Shin. We headed for the 'Dunroamin' Caravan Park. We were blown to bits by the wind, and looked forward to getting warm in the tent. The ride today though was so spectacular, we didn't seem to mind the continual wrestle against the very strong winds. It didn't rain, but was clouded most of the day.

We had a great dinner of pork sausages with a variety of vegetables, and dessert. We don't lack in the food department. Our little Trangia cooker can cook almost anything, except a roast! The one single shower for the entire camping ground was a bit of a struggle. I joined a queue, and then when it was my turn, I wondered why the shower wouldn't work. No one told me I needed to put 20p in a little unlabelled white box on the wall. I eventually worked it out!

This is remate Scotland. It is as cold as 'charity', and we wondered what it would be like in winter! But it is beautiful, and we are so glad we are here. We huddled all night togehter in our sleeping bags, listening to the howl of the wind all night. Its been another spectacular day, for which we daily give thanks to the Lord. Tomorrow - Bettyhill at the very top of Scotlands rugged north coast.

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