It rained through the night, and was still raining in the morning. We ate in the tent, and had to make the dreaded decision to pack up in the rain, and head off. The tent was packed dripping wet, as were we before we even got on the bike. It rained all the way to Fort William, but it was nevertheless a great day.
Its not very comfortable, but the scenery is still gtreat, although there was lots of mist and lots of water everywhere. After several miles I decided we would still have photos, so we risked the camera, which was wet anyway in my back pocket. We were following the Caledonian canal, which opened up eventually to Loch Oich, then Loch Lochie all the way to Fort William.
About 10miles before Fort William the road cuts away from the Loch, and rises for quite some time. I think its harder riding long hills in the heavy rain. However, we knew eventually thatw e would come out on top of a high point at the wonderful Memorial to the British Commandos, the Green Berets. It was pouring with rain, but we pulled, our feet and legs were frozen with the cold, our hands seemed numb, but we kind of reflected that conditions for many of these brave young men would have been far worse, so we took time in the rain to view the memorial and read the memorial plaques that were there. The saddest of all were the last tributes - to young men just recently killed in actions in Iraq and Afganistan, as recently as weeks past.
We headed off, and immediately the road plummeted down into the village of Spean Bridge, across the bridge, and on our final approach of some 15k or so to Fort William. Sadly, the highest mountain on mainland Britain, Ben Nevis, was fogged in as we cycled past its base. We never saw the top.
We arrived in Fort William cold, wet and a bit bedraggled, having decidied it was no time to set up a soggy tent in the wet and raining conditions. We found a room at the Bank St Lodge, and spent a happy night there meeting lots of other mostly younger visitors from around the world.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Evanton to Fort Augustus - 81k - Sun 15th July
We woke to a perfectly beautiful day. Some wind, but the sun was shing and the sky was blue. It was a great day for our meeting with the Loch Ness monster just a few miles to the south!
We took the A862 to Dingwall, then on to Conon Bridge and Muir of Ord, all small villages but very pretty. The countryside was beautiful, espeically as we followed the coastline of the Cromarty Firth for quite some time until heading off into the countryside. Once into the countryside, the roads started to climb, not so much steeply but long and gradual, making us work hard nevertheless.
We were obviously climbing up and over high country before we took a dive down onto the shores of Loch Ness. We were on the A833, and the stretch across country was about 20k which got harder and harder, but the sights of the mountains around us were so attractive. We were aiming for the village of Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness, but for a long while it seemed all up and not down. We crested the mountain section finally, and there was the sign - 15% descent down into the village of Milton, one mile from 'the Drum'.
It was a very fast drop, with two severaly steep sections. We were just thinking to ourselves that we were glad we didn't have to ridse back up. We had lunch at this very very attractive little town, which was full of tourists and touristy shops with coffee and Scottish souviners. We had one of our bike lunches, and headed off for the ruins of Urquart Castle, which was where the road meets Loch Ness. It was a long pull up and out of the town, but the views of Loch Ness were just startling, a photographic paradise. We just ahd to stop numerous times and adore the scenery. The boats out on the Loch made it look like a watery paradise.
Over the top the castle ruins came into view. This is one of the great castles, but ruined really by the massive car park and high wall separating the castle from any public view unless you may the highly exorbitent price. Being cyclists, we can stop at places where cars have no chance, and we had the best views from high above looking down over the castle, and avoided the massive charges and queues of people. From there we followed Loch Ness for its full length heading for the Lch village of Fort Augustus.
Some 6 miles from Fort Augustus, we came to the little village of Invermoriston, which has a small shop, but a beautiful old bridge across the river at the bottom of Loch Ness. We shouted something like 'coffee' to break the time up before our final leg. I stopped for a photo, Julie went around the corner for the bridge, and I thought she just cycled on. So I then cycled around the corner and saw no sight of her, and I took photos off the bridge, before setting off after her. I rode the fastest 10k to Fort Augustus of our 3000k journey and caught no sight of her, not knowing that she had wheeled around the corner into a car park at Invermoriston, to look for the coffee shop. Realising that I was not there, she set off after me, and I didn't know that she was chasing me!
I got to Fort Augustus with no sign of her, parked my bike in the middle of the street, and walked into the TIC, when a very puffing Julie pulls up just minuts after me. Realising what we had both done, we had a great laugh, both of us breaking our 'pb's - the fastest 10k of the whole journey. We slept well at the beautiful camping ground with magnificent views of stunning mountains all around.
We took the A862 to Dingwall, then on to Conon Bridge and Muir of Ord, all small villages but very pretty. The countryside was beautiful, espeically as we followed the coastline of the Cromarty Firth for quite some time until heading off into the countryside. Once into the countryside, the roads started to climb, not so much steeply but long and gradual, making us work hard nevertheless.
We were obviously climbing up and over high country before we took a dive down onto the shores of Loch Ness. We were on the A833, and the stretch across country was about 20k which got harder and harder, but the sights of the mountains around us were so attractive. We were aiming for the village of Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness, but for a long while it seemed all up and not down. We crested the mountain section finally, and there was the sign - 15% descent down into the village of Milton, one mile from 'the Drum'.
It was a very fast drop, with two severaly steep sections. We were just thinking to ourselves that we were glad we didn't have to ridse back up. We had lunch at this very very attractive little town, which was full of tourists and touristy shops with coffee and Scottish souviners. We had one of our bike lunches, and headed off for the ruins of Urquart Castle, which was where the road meets Loch Ness. It was a long pull up and out of the town, but the views of Loch Ness were just startling, a photographic paradise. We just ahd to stop numerous times and adore the scenery. The boats out on the Loch made it look like a watery paradise.
Over the top the castle ruins came into view. This is one of the great castles, but ruined really by the massive car park and high wall separating the castle from any public view unless you may the highly exorbitent price. Being cyclists, we can stop at places where cars have no chance, and we had the best views from high above looking down over the castle, and avoided the massive charges and queues of people. From there we followed Loch Ness for its full length heading for the Lch village of Fort Augustus.
Some 6 miles from Fort Augustus, we came to the little village of Invermoriston, which has a small shop, but a beautiful old bridge across the river at the bottom of Loch Ness. We shouted something like 'coffee' to break the time up before our final leg. I stopped for a photo, Julie went around the corner for the bridge, and I thought she just cycled on. So I then cycled around the corner and saw no sight of her, and I took photos off the bridge, before setting off after her. I rode the fastest 10k to Fort Augustus of our 3000k journey and caught no sight of her, not knowing that she had wheeled around the corner into a car park at Invermoriston, to look for the coffee shop. Realising that I was not there, she set off after me, and I didn't know that she was chasing me!
I got to Fort Augustus with no sign of her, parked my bike in the middle of the street, and walked into the TIC, when a very puffing Julie pulls up just minuts after me. Realising what we had both done, we had a great laugh, both of us breaking our 'pb's - the fastest 10k of the whole journey. We slept well at the beautiful camping ground with magnificent views of stunning mountains all around.
Helmsdale to Evanton - 92k - Sat 14 July
We woke to w et and windy day, it having rained most of the night. We rolled out of town, with a southerly wind into our faces, across the new bridge built from the stones of the old Helmsdale castle. The castle would have been better. Instead, they built a memorial on the spot to the families affected by the land clearances - we could see an aussie flag blowing from our hotel window - there were several flags of the countries who accepted familes as immigrants who were sadly affected by this. The road south basically followed the lovely coastline. \while never flat, it was pretty despite the hard work always into the wind.
We were dressed in our full cold weather gear today. I must say \i made a mistake with yesterdays report - I mentioned Dunrobin Castle - well it was todays trip, not yesterday. As we approached the village of Goldspie, the beautiful castle stood out much like the fantasy castle of Walt Disney. It was a sight to behold, along with the rugged remains of the 2000yr old 'cairn' fort on the side of the road just before the castle.
We aimed for the town of Dornoch for lunch. Off the highway, we had to firstly cross the Loch Fleet - always a lovely bridge with its turnoff to Lairg where we had been days before. The road swept se, from where we turned off on to narrow farm lanes for several miles with great sights of farms, staone walls and the waters of the Firth. Dornoch is famous for the final execution of Englands last 'witch' trial, and as the home of Duncan Ross the father figure of modern Golf. It has a 13th century Cathedral. We loved the town, and always sad to leave without taking it all in.
We headed across country again for several k before coming to the long bridge that crosses the Dornoch Firth, which we could see several days earlier on our way north from closer to Bonar Bridge and Strui Hill. The wind was that strong we had to hang on for dear life. It was cutting across us and we were very exposed.
After Tain, we counted the miles down still fighting with the wind, until we got into the cover of the lovely tree lined minor road that took us to the tiny village of Evanton. We started our final leg into the far north from Evanton some 4-5 days earlier. The camping ground is a picture, besde the River Glass and set against the beautiful dark forest on the mountains behind, featured in Harry Potter.
We were glad to be in. Sometime during the afternoon the rain stopped, but the wind stayed strong. We had a nicely protected camp site, and by now it just seemed like a lovely summer's afternoon. We enjoyed one of our 'special' dinners on the Trangia!
We were dressed in our full cold weather gear today. I must say \i made a mistake with yesterdays report - I mentioned Dunrobin Castle - well it was todays trip, not yesterday. As we approached the village of Goldspie, the beautiful castle stood out much like the fantasy castle of Walt Disney. It was a sight to behold, along with the rugged remains of the 2000yr old 'cairn' fort on the side of the road just before the castle.
We aimed for the town of Dornoch for lunch. Off the highway, we had to firstly cross the Loch Fleet - always a lovely bridge with its turnoff to Lairg where we had been days before. The road swept se, from where we turned off on to narrow farm lanes for several miles with great sights of farms, staone walls and the waters of the Firth. Dornoch is famous for the final execution of Englands last 'witch' trial, and as the home of Duncan Ross the father figure of modern Golf. It has a 13th century Cathedral. We loved the town, and always sad to leave without taking it all in.
We headed across country again for several k before coming to the long bridge that crosses the Dornoch Firth, which we could see several days earlier on our way north from closer to Bonar Bridge and Strui Hill. The wind was that strong we had to hang on for dear life. It was cutting across us and we were very exposed.
After Tain, we counted the miles down still fighting with the wind, until we got into the cover of the lovely tree lined minor road that took us to the tiny village of Evanton. We started our final leg into the far north from Evanton some 4-5 days earlier. The camping ground is a picture, besde the River Glass and set against the beautiful dark forest on the mountains behind, featured in Harry Potter.
We were glad to be in. Sometime during the afternoon the rain stopped, but the wind stayed strong. We had a nicely protected camp site, and by now it just seemed like a lovely summer's afternoon. We enjoyed one of our 'special' dinners on the Trangia!
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
John O'Groats to Helmsdale - 87k - Fri 13 July
It was a cool and overcast day when we finally said goodbye to John O'Groats, the original ferry service set up by Jan de Groot several hundred years earlier, by authority of the King of Scotland in order to get a formal connection to the Orkneys, and claim greater ownership from Norway of the 63 or so islands that make up the group. The long but gentle hiil out went on for several kilometers, giving occasional glimpses back over the basically flat dairy countryside.
The wind was blowing now from the south, so we faced it all day. I guess when you have been in a country as long as we have, you should expect to get the wind from all directions. We have had a good share. The sceneray was lovely nevertheless. We were on the A99 heading for the town of Wick about 26k away. It wasn't long before we picked up the outline of the great Noss Head sticking out into the North Sea, and then the faint outlines of the two castles, Girnigo and Sinclair.
We soon arrived at Wick, but because we had our sights set on the village of Latheron for lunch, another 26k, we just cycled straight through and out the other side, climbing up a reasonable hill to the top on the bottom side. We stopped for a 'breather', then put our heads down and kept going. It was hard work into the head wind. There were numerous long inclines that kept us working hard into the wind. We had the ocean to our left, and mostly visible, and lovely rural scenes passing to our right, with loads of evidence of generations of old and the disused stones houses and buildings that stand these days more as stone memorials to the past. We were in Caithness after all.
We could see the dreaded signs of rain in the distance, so we pulled over just in time to cover up and put coats on. Then the heavens opened on us, yet again! The coastline was occasionally dramatic, with cliffs and beautiful steep fields leading to the edges, all the time we were going up and down, the longer inclines making it serious going for us. The rain made things miserable enough for us to just want to be in our rooms at Helmsdale, but we still had a while to go.
Latheron came at last, but was more a hamlet of scattered houses with lovely coastal views, so we had lunch in the standing position looking out over fields of sheep, the ocean and the network of lovely ancient stone walled paddacks, having our banana and apples sandwiches.
We had 32k to go to Helmsdale. There were two towns in between, each seemed to be in a deep cravass, which probably meant steep descents and then steep ascents. Dunbeath wasn't so bad. It was a long descending open road with a corresponding long sweeping rise again to the top, over the Dunbeath Water. It was a great view, but a slow long pull out the other side.
Berridale was next. It started with the warning sign - 14% descent - and the road really dropped suddenly, with tight curves dropping all the way to the bottom. I stopped for photos from the top, but Julie just dived down. I was still taking photos when I saw her lonely figure so small in the distance having started the ginormously steep ascent out of the valley on the other side. Then I followed. I measrued 2k from bottom to top, and it was a killer. Julie chose the walk from about half way, to enjoy the staggering view better. It made the sweat drip down the face. It was a very tough long climb, which after 2k kept climbing for nseveral more but at a much lesser rate.
On the final approach to Helmsdale, we passed the very beautiful Dunrobin Castle, and popped in. We also passed a 2,000yr old 'cairn', the remains of a stone fort, just at the side of the road. The final descent into Helmsdale started from about 5k out, and spiralled around the dramatic coastline, dropping in to the village like a glider. We were doing 50kph on our descent, the view just glorious. When we finally came to a stop at the bottom on the edge of the little village with its own dock, set against incrediblly steep and stunning hills to the back, we looked for our Hoetl - the Belgrave Arms. They had lost our reservation, but had a room anyway, and we were glad to be inside, out of the weather. We had worked very hard today, and glad to have a television and a jog to make 'bottomless' coffee.
Tomorrow we get back to Evanton, from where we started our final assault on the northern coasts of Scotland, before heading to Fort William, Kilchoan and then finally to Stirling in a week's time to bring our great cycling adventure to an end.
We are grateful for your continuing thoughts and prayers. Until then.....K&J
The wind was blowing now from the south, so we faced it all day. I guess when you have been in a country as long as we have, you should expect to get the wind from all directions. We have had a good share. The sceneray was lovely nevertheless. We were on the A99 heading for the town of Wick about 26k away. It wasn't long before we picked up the outline of the great Noss Head sticking out into the North Sea, and then the faint outlines of the two castles, Girnigo and Sinclair.
We soon arrived at Wick, but because we had our sights set on the village of Latheron for lunch, another 26k, we just cycled straight through and out the other side, climbing up a reasonable hill to the top on the bottom side. We stopped for a 'breather', then put our heads down and kept going. It was hard work into the head wind. There were numerous long inclines that kept us working hard into the wind. We had the ocean to our left, and mostly visible, and lovely rural scenes passing to our right, with loads of evidence of generations of old and the disused stones houses and buildings that stand these days more as stone memorials to the past. We were in Caithness after all.
We could see the dreaded signs of rain in the distance, so we pulled over just in time to cover up and put coats on. Then the heavens opened on us, yet again! The coastline was occasionally dramatic, with cliffs and beautiful steep fields leading to the edges, all the time we were going up and down, the longer inclines making it serious going for us. The rain made things miserable enough for us to just want to be in our rooms at Helmsdale, but we still had a while to go.
Latheron came at last, but was more a hamlet of scattered houses with lovely coastal views, so we had lunch in the standing position looking out over fields of sheep, the ocean and the network of lovely ancient stone walled paddacks, having our banana and apples sandwiches.
We had 32k to go to Helmsdale. There were two towns in between, each seemed to be in a deep cravass, which probably meant steep descents and then steep ascents. Dunbeath wasn't so bad. It was a long descending open road with a corresponding long sweeping rise again to the top, over the Dunbeath Water. It was a great view, but a slow long pull out the other side.
Berridale was next. It started with the warning sign - 14% descent - and the road really dropped suddenly, with tight curves dropping all the way to the bottom. I stopped for photos from the top, but Julie just dived down. I was still taking photos when I saw her lonely figure so small in the distance having started the ginormously steep ascent out of the valley on the other side. Then I followed. I measrued 2k from bottom to top, and it was a killer. Julie chose the walk from about half way, to enjoy the staggering view better. It made the sweat drip down the face. It was a very tough long climb, which after 2k kept climbing for nseveral more but at a much lesser rate.
On the final approach to Helmsdale, we passed the very beautiful Dunrobin Castle, and popped in. We also passed a 2,000yr old 'cairn', the remains of a stone fort, just at the side of the road. The final descent into Helmsdale started from about 5k out, and spiralled around the dramatic coastline, dropping in to the village like a glider. We were doing 50kph on our descent, the view just glorious. When we finally came to a stop at the bottom on the edge of the little village with its own dock, set against incrediblly steep and stunning hills to the back, we looked for our Hoetl - the Belgrave Arms. They had lost our reservation, but had a room anyway, and we were glad to be inside, out of the weather. We had worked very hard today, and glad to have a television and a jog to make 'bottomless' coffee.
Tomorrow we get back to Evanton, from where we started our final assault on the northern coasts of Scotland, before heading to Fort William, Kilchoan and then finally to Stirling in a week's time to bring our great cycling adventure to an end.
We are grateful for your continuing thoughts and prayers. Until then.....K&J
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Bettyhill to John O'Groats! - 86k - Thurs 12 July
We woke in our upstairs room at the Bettyhill Hotel to rain and cold conditions outside. The mist had rolled in from the west, giving very poor visibility in any direction. It was a cold and bleak departure from this tiny village perched on a craggy hilltop on the rugged northern coastline of Scotland.
At 10am we rolled away, and immediately the road plummeted back to the bottom of a very steep hill. The book told us we would have 6 very steep climbs in the first 17 miles (25k). This was to get us at a sea level start for the first one, which started at the bottom, and immediately went up. It was a tough climb, but not as bad as we've had. Julie went straight up and over the top. She is doing extremely well on the bike now. I suspect also she is scenting the salt air of John O'Groats just down the road, and the achievement of something that just started as a dream - to ride her bike from 'End to End'.
We climbed to great heights with staggering scenery despite the very wet conditions and low misty cloud. The coastlline is extremely rugged, and the hills have dramatic drops which give the place a lot of character. We were meeting loose sheep along the roads, who also grazed on the very steep slopes away from the road. It was startling to look down into the valleys, and especially back towards Bettyhill down the valley which was just a picture. It would have been quite startling in good weather and bright sunshine.
We climbed the 2nd of our long climbs and over the top, and were on a very fast descent before the third, going down into the little village of Armadale. It was a long open sweeping descent, and we were doing 40kph with Julie just in front of me. With wet road and the kind of descent we were doing, your eyes just watch the road. We didn't see the sign - they are always so well signed, but we both saw it in front of us and there was nothing we could do - certainly couldn't brake - but a cattle grid had suddenly loomed into our path. Julie hit it first with simply a 'blip' and then I did the same - I think our hearts stopped beating for a few seconds wondering what would become of us - but we went over it just like a car would - actually we hardly felt it. But when you condider its made of parallel railway tracks about 6'' apart, it is quite an obstacle for a bike! We always walk across them.
We did the third long climb - none of them being too tough for Julie. She is really impressive today. We passed through the village of Strathie, and then the turn off to 'Brawl' - wondering what it was that gave its name! We were counting off the climbs, and I think we got to four, wondering where the final two were, because we were running out of distance. The fifth one loomed into the picture somewhere before Melvich, and for some reason we couldn't find the 6th, or we had climbed it and not counted it because it didn't seem like such a tough climb.
The rugged coastline and solid hills turned into flat farming country after about 39k, and it was like this all the way to John O'Groats. We picked up the speed, and flew the long flats and gentle downhills, stopping a fair bit to take photos. We had crossed the border from County Sutherland with its strong gaelic influence, into County Caithness with its strong influence from the Nords. The place was rather rocky, and there was incredible evidence of the early Nordic settlements, with especially the formations and constructions that they did with the unique slated rock that is prevalent throughout Caithness.
Caithness used to belong to the Norse Earldom under fee to the King of Norway along with the Orkneys, until 1266 when it was ceded to the Scottish Crown in the Treaty of Perth. We passed through Thurso (named after Thor the god of war by the Nords) eventually coming across the Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which seems to be a blight on this otherwise beautiful and natural countryside.
Somthing for Grandad Stewart to research - the Power Station is built on an old WW2 airfield which you may wish to follow up. The runway is now used as the carpark, and looks incredible from a heighted distance. We passed the Queen Mother's former residence, the Castle of Mey at the village of Mey, with Dunnet Head the northern most point of British mainland now very prominent. We had been able to see the shadowy Orkney's for quite some time, in which was also Scapa Flow.
We were able to use the big gears a lot now, and enjoyed the cycling. The rain had cleared and the roads were rather dry now, but the sky still mostly overcast. We were keen to get to John O'Groats before 5pm so we didn't miss the little man who takes the official photos!
We had lunch in any case at Thurso, then set off for the final leg. It was 3pm and we had 32k to go, and we rolled into the long straight into John O'Groats at just after 4:30pm, having done remarkably well given the heavy loads we carry. I sat behind Julie all the way. Being the unit's official photographer, I have to keep stopping while I tell Julie to keep riding and I'll catch her. I am sure she rides faster so making it harder for me to catch her again!
The area around JOG is very flat farming land. Many might say its unspectacular, but I didn't think so. We were quite keyed up, having come this far and to finally reach this great milestone. The first thing that came into view was the Seaview Hotel with the official welcome sign to John O'Groats township. We stopped for our own photos here, first I took Julie's photo, then I had to line up beside the post for Julie to take. In juggling the heavy bike into position, it overbalanced the wrong way, and I went down with the 'ship', sprawled on the road intertwined in the bike, making a great spectacle for passers by. Having ridden all this way, I fall off the bike at the John O'Groats welcome sign!
We rolled down to the dock where the TIC was located, along with the John O'Groats hotel and several other touristy shops. It is a really lovely sight, We lined up for the official photo and happily paid the man his few pounds, and he also happily took further free ones for us on our camera.
So folks - after nearly 3,000k from Paris, and 2,000k from Land's End - WE MADE IT - in one piece with very few mishaps and all healthy and happy.
We are at Beauly today (15th Sun) just a few miles from Loch Ness on our final few days, before reaching Stirling next Saturday. Getting access to email is alsways difficult, so uif we can't get access before Stirling - we've had a great run back down the east coast. It poured rain most of yesterday, we had some very steep climbs the day before, but today the sun is out and the sky is all blue, and we are doing fine.
Until then - love from us. K&J
At 10am we rolled away, and immediately the road plummeted back to the bottom of a very steep hill. The book told us we would have 6 very steep climbs in the first 17 miles (25k). This was to get us at a sea level start for the first one, which started at the bottom, and immediately went up. It was a tough climb, but not as bad as we've had. Julie went straight up and over the top. She is doing extremely well on the bike now. I suspect also she is scenting the salt air of John O'Groats just down the road, and the achievement of something that just started as a dream - to ride her bike from 'End to End'.
We climbed to great heights with staggering scenery despite the very wet conditions and low misty cloud. The coastlline is extremely rugged, and the hills have dramatic drops which give the place a lot of character. We were meeting loose sheep along the roads, who also grazed on the very steep slopes away from the road. It was startling to look down into the valleys, and especially back towards Bettyhill down the valley which was just a picture. It would have been quite startling in good weather and bright sunshine.
We climbed the 2nd of our long climbs and over the top, and were on a very fast descent before the third, going down into the little village of Armadale. It was a long open sweeping descent, and we were doing 40kph with Julie just in front of me. With wet road and the kind of descent we were doing, your eyes just watch the road. We didn't see the sign - they are always so well signed, but we both saw it in front of us and there was nothing we could do - certainly couldn't brake - but a cattle grid had suddenly loomed into our path. Julie hit it first with simply a 'blip' and then I did the same - I think our hearts stopped beating for a few seconds wondering what would become of us - but we went over it just like a car would - actually we hardly felt it. But when you condider its made of parallel railway tracks about 6'' apart, it is quite an obstacle for a bike! We always walk across them.
We did the third long climb - none of them being too tough for Julie. She is really impressive today. We passed through the village of Strathie, and then the turn off to 'Brawl' - wondering what it was that gave its name! We were counting off the climbs, and I think we got to four, wondering where the final two were, because we were running out of distance. The fifth one loomed into the picture somewhere before Melvich, and for some reason we couldn't find the 6th, or we had climbed it and not counted it because it didn't seem like such a tough climb.
The rugged coastline and solid hills turned into flat farming country after about 39k, and it was like this all the way to John O'Groats. We picked up the speed, and flew the long flats and gentle downhills, stopping a fair bit to take photos. We had crossed the border from County Sutherland with its strong gaelic influence, into County Caithness with its strong influence from the Nords. The place was rather rocky, and there was incredible evidence of the early Nordic settlements, with especially the formations and constructions that they did with the unique slated rock that is prevalent throughout Caithness.
Caithness used to belong to the Norse Earldom under fee to the King of Norway along with the Orkneys, until 1266 when it was ceded to the Scottish Crown in the Treaty of Perth. We passed through Thurso (named after Thor the god of war by the Nords) eventually coming across the Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which seems to be a blight on this otherwise beautiful and natural countryside.
Somthing for Grandad Stewart to research - the Power Station is built on an old WW2 airfield which you may wish to follow up. The runway is now used as the carpark, and looks incredible from a heighted distance. We passed the Queen Mother's former residence, the Castle of Mey at the village of Mey, with Dunnet Head the northern most point of British mainland now very prominent. We had been able to see the shadowy Orkney's for quite some time, in which was also Scapa Flow.
We were able to use the big gears a lot now, and enjoyed the cycling. The rain had cleared and the roads were rather dry now, but the sky still mostly overcast. We were keen to get to John O'Groats before 5pm so we didn't miss the little man who takes the official photos!
We had lunch in any case at Thurso, then set off for the final leg. It was 3pm and we had 32k to go, and we rolled into the long straight into John O'Groats at just after 4:30pm, having done remarkably well given the heavy loads we carry. I sat behind Julie all the way. Being the unit's official photographer, I have to keep stopping while I tell Julie to keep riding and I'll catch her. I am sure she rides faster so making it harder for me to catch her again!
The area around JOG is very flat farming land. Many might say its unspectacular, but I didn't think so. We were quite keyed up, having come this far and to finally reach this great milestone. The first thing that came into view was the Seaview Hotel with the official welcome sign to John O'Groats township. We stopped for our own photos here, first I took Julie's photo, then I had to line up beside the post for Julie to take. In juggling the heavy bike into position, it overbalanced the wrong way, and I went down with the 'ship', sprawled on the road intertwined in the bike, making a great spectacle for passers by. Having ridden all this way, I fall off the bike at the John O'Groats welcome sign!
We rolled down to the dock where the TIC was located, along with the John O'Groats hotel and several other touristy shops. It is a really lovely sight, We lined up for the official photo and happily paid the man his few pounds, and he also happily took further free ones for us on our camera.
So folks - after nearly 3,000k from Paris, and 2,000k from Land's End - WE MADE IT - in one piece with very few mishaps and all healthy and happy.
We are at Beauly today (15th Sun) just a few miles from Loch Ness on our final few days, before reaching Stirling next Saturday. Getting access to email is alsways difficult, so uif we can't get access before Stirling - we've had a great run back down the east coast. It poured rain most of yesterday, we had some very steep climbs the day before, but today the sun is out and the sky is all blue, and we are doing fine.
Until then - love from us. K&J
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Lairg to Bettyhill - 75k - Wed 11 July
We decided to get on the road and get to Bettyhill as soon as we could. We were booked in to the Bettyhill Hotel. We were on the road by 9:10am, quite a good start for us. We bought some groceries, and headed off into the strongest of winds from the north, perhaps north west. They were bitterly cold and blowing a gale, as only you could imagine coming from the north Atlantic. It felt like it was off the polar caps!
We were headed due north today, so we looked forward to the wind all day for the 75k trip to Bettyhill. We were on the A836, which just north of Lairg turned into a single lane road and remained that way all the way. I must say this was probably our most spectacular day, and that is a big claim. Words can hardly explain the sheer beauty and majesty of the mountains, the glens (valleys), the rivers and the paddocks, farmhouses of stone and miles of stone fencing at times.
Our first goal was the Inn at Crask, reputedly the coldest place in Scotland. I said to Julie it can't be right - it has to be the coldest place on earth! It was cold, and we laboured happily into the wickedly cold wind, because the scenery was so spectacular. We initally followed the edge of Loch Shin for a while, then the Strath Tirry (river). The beautiful mountains loomed all around, especially Ben Klibreck at over 3000ft to the north east of Crask. We had to keep stopping for photos. The first 20k or so from Lairg was a gradual and continual climb in altitude. With the wind also, we were doing between 9-16kph, mostly in our lower gears. It wasn't hard, but the wind was a little wearing at times.
Crask seems to be in the far reaches of a wilderness. We passed straight through, not wanting to stop due to the cold wind. The views though were simply spectacular, so we frequently stopped to take photos as best we could. From Crask we followed along the Strath Bagastie until we came to the little and extremely attractive hamlet of Altnaharra. The previous 15k or so was done at great speed because the gradual incline had turned into a slight descent all the way to Altnaharra. We were both flying in our large chain rings, making excellent time and enjoying the cycling immensely.
Just through Altnaharra we turned east on the B873 that follows the entire length of Loch Naver (part of Strath Naver). Guess what - we had the gale behind us now - so we were both in our big chain rings and powering with the help of the wind. The views were so lovely - across the loch, up the surrounding mountains and into the fields loaded with sheep. We also had loose sheep on the road, so we had to be extremely careful. After about 12k the road turned north, and we were back into the wind, which seemed to get gradually worse the closer we got to Bettyhill.
We still followed the River Naver, all the way to Bettyhill, still 30k to the north. We were riding past special viewing points that drew attention to the terrible things that happened in the early 1800's with the clearance of familes and entire communities from the homes and fields that they worked, so that the owners could turn their land over to sheep grazing. This happened over large parts of Scotland, but Bettyhill was the focus of the scandallous actions that affected so many thousands of Scottish families.
Despite the howling cold wind, we loved the ride into Bettyhill. There were some strong inclines, but also some nice descents also. The views along the river valley were really something special. The closer we got to Bettyhill the more spectacular and rugged the landscape became.
We finally met the A836 coming from Tongue to the west (where Bonnie Prince Charles made his escape after the Battle of Culloden), with the final few miles into Bettyhill just a spectacle of sheer beauty and rugged coastline. The wind just about blew us to a standstill, but we made the final 2k 'moderate climb' up the side of the rugged coastline to the tiny but scattered buildings making up the Bettyhill community.
The beautiful old Hotel is situated right on top of the 'hill' with panoramic views over the rugged coastline of the Torrisdale Bay. Built in 1819 by the House of Sutherland, it was a coaching Inn which was popular with especially fishermen because the Strath Naver is one of Scotland's greatest salmon rivers.
This is rugged Scotland at its remote best. Everywhere we turned we saw a photo in it. We were glad to be very early today - in by 2:30pm - I think our earliest day. The Hotel is perched high, with great views over the northern rugged coast of Scotland out into either the Atlantic or the North Sea, or both. Maybe they join about here.
We too are perched to tomorrow get ourselves to John O'Groats - the furthest most point from Land's End on the southern tip of Cornwall. It is not over for us, but the 'End to End' for us has been a significant part of our Paris-Stirling adventure. It will be a great moment for us to touch the post at John O'Groats tomorrow. Heading east, we are hoping the n/west gale keeps up overnight to push us (for a change) all the way tomorrow.
We send our love to everyone. We are both fine, happy and conscious now our great adventure is reaching iyts final stages. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. K&J
We were headed due north today, so we looked forward to the wind all day for the 75k trip to Bettyhill. We were on the A836, which just north of Lairg turned into a single lane road and remained that way all the way. I must say this was probably our most spectacular day, and that is a big claim. Words can hardly explain the sheer beauty and majesty of the mountains, the glens (valleys), the rivers and the paddocks, farmhouses of stone and miles of stone fencing at times.
Our first goal was the Inn at Crask, reputedly the coldest place in Scotland. I said to Julie it can't be right - it has to be the coldest place on earth! It was cold, and we laboured happily into the wickedly cold wind, because the scenery was so spectacular. We initally followed the edge of Loch Shin for a while, then the Strath Tirry (river). The beautiful mountains loomed all around, especially Ben Klibreck at over 3000ft to the north east of Crask. We had to keep stopping for photos. The first 20k or so from Lairg was a gradual and continual climb in altitude. With the wind also, we were doing between 9-16kph, mostly in our lower gears. It wasn't hard, but the wind was a little wearing at times.
Crask seems to be in the far reaches of a wilderness. We passed straight through, not wanting to stop due to the cold wind. The views though were simply spectacular, so we frequently stopped to take photos as best we could. From Crask we followed along the Strath Bagastie until we came to the little and extremely attractive hamlet of Altnaharra. The previous 15k or so was done at great speed because the gradual incline had turned into a slight descent all the way to Altnaharra. We were both flying in our large chain rings, making excellent time and enjoying the cycling immensely.
Just through Altnaharra we turned east on the B873 that follows the entire length of Loch Naver (part of Strath Naver). Guess what - we had the gale behind us now - so we were both in our big chain rings and powering with the help of the wind. The views were so lovely - across the loch, up the surrounding mountains and into the fields loaded with sheep. We also had loose sheep on the road, so we had to be extremely careful. After about 12k the road turned north, and we were back into the wind, which seemed to get gradually worse the closer we got to Bettyhill.
We still followed the River Naver, all the way to Bettyhill, still 30k to the north. We were riding past special viewing points that drew attention to the terrible things that happened in the early 1800's with the clearance of familes and entire communities from the homes and fields that they worked, so that the owners could turn their land over to sheep grazing. This happened over large parts of Scotland, but Bettyhill was the focus of the scandallous actions that affected so many thousands of Scottish families.
Despite the howling cold wind, we loved the ride into Bettyhill. There were some strong inclines, but also some nice descents also. The views along the river valley were really something special. The closer we got to Bettyhill the more spectacular and rugged the landscape became.
We finally met the A836 coming from Tongue to the west (where Bonnie Prince Charles made his escape after the Battle of Culloden), with the final few miles into Bettyhill just a spectacle of sheer beauty and rugged coastline. The wind just about blew us to a standstill, but we made the final 2k 'moderate climb' up the side of the rugged coastline to the tiny but scattered buildings making up the Bettyhill community.
The beautiful old Hotel is situated right on top of the 'hill' with panoramic views over the rugged coastline of the Torrisdale Bay. Built in 1819 by the House of Sutherland, it was a coaching Inn which was popular with especially fishermen because the Strath Naver is one of Scotland's greatest salmon rivers.
This is rugged Scotland at its remote best. Everywhere we turned we saw a photo in it. We were glad to be very early today - in by 2:30pm - I think our earliest day. The Hotel is perched high, with great views over the northern rugged coast of Scotland out into either the Atlantic or the North Sea, or both. Maybe they join about here.
We too are perched to tomorrow get ourselves to John O'Groats - the furthest most point from Land's End on the southern tip of Cornwall. It is not over for us, but the 'End to End' for us has been a significant part of our Paris-Stirling adventure. It will be a great moment for us to touch the post at John O'Groats tomorrow. Heading east, we are hoping the n/west gale keeps up overnight to push us (for a change) all the way tomorrow.
We send our love to everyone. We are both fine, happy and conscious now our great adventure is reaching iyts final stages. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. K&J
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