It was a cool and overcast day when we finally said goodbye to John O'Groats, the original ferry service set up by Jan de Groot several hundred years earlier, by authority of the King of Scotland in order to get a formal connection to the Orkneys, and claim greater ownership from Norway of the 63 or so islands that make up the group. The long but gentle hiil out went on for several kilometers, giving occasional glimpses back over the basically flat dairy countryside.
The wind was blowing now from the south, so we faced it all day. I guess when you have been in a country as long as we have, you should expect to get the wind from all directions. We have had a good share. The sceneray was lovely nevertheless. We were on the A99 heading for the town of Wick about 26k away. It wasn't long before we picked up the outline of the great Noss Head sticking out into the North Sea, and then the faint outlines of the two castles, Girnigo and Sinclair.
We soon arrived at Wick, but because we had our sights set on the village of Latheron for lunch, another 26k, we just cycled straight through and out the other side, climbing up a reasonable hill to the top on the bottom side. We stopped for a 'breather', then put our heads down and kept going. It was hard work into the head wind. There were numerous long inclines that kept us working hard into the wind. We had the ocean to our left, and mostly visible, and lovely rural scenes passing to our right, with loads of evidence of generations of old and the disused stones houses and buildings that stand these days more as stone memorials to the past. We were in Caithness after all.
We could see the dreaded signs of rain in the distance, so we pulled over just in time to cover up and put coats on. Then the heavens opened on us, yet again! The coastline was occasionally dramatic, with cliffs and beautiful steep fields leading to the edges, all the time we were going up and down, the longer inclines making it serious going for us. The rain made things miserable enough for us to just want to be in our rooms at Helmsdale, but we still had a while to go.
Latheron came at last, but was more a hamlet of scattered houses with lovely coastal views, so we had lunch in the standing position looking out over fields of sheep, the ocean and the network of lovely ancient stone walled paddacks, having our banana and apples sandwiches.
We had 32k to go to Helmsdale. There were two towns in between, each seemed to be in a deep cravass, which probably meant steep descents and then steep ascents. Dunbeath wasn't so bad. It was a long descending open road with a corresponding long sweeping rise again to the top, over the Dunbeath Water. It was a great view, but a slow long pull out the other side.
Berridale was next. It started with the warning sign - 14% descent - and the road really dropped suddenly, with tight curves dropping all the way to the bottom. I stopped for photos from the top, but Julie just dived down. I was still taking photos when I saw her lonely figure so small in the distance having started the ginormously steep ascent out of the valley on the other side. Then I followed. I measrued 2k from bottom to top, and it was a killer. Julie chose the walk from about half way, to enjoy the staggering view better. It made the sweat drip down the face. It was a very tough long climb, which after 2k kept climbing for nseveral more but at a much lesser rate.
On the final approach to Helmsdale, we passed the very beautiful Dunrobin Castle, and popped in. We also passed a 2,000yr old 'cairn', the remains of a stone fort, just at the side of the road. The final descent into Helmsdale started from about 5k out, and spiralled around the dramatic coastline, dropping in to the village like a glider. We were doing 50kph on our descent, the view just glorious. When we finally came to a stop at the bottom on the edge of the little village with its own dock, set against incrediblly steep and stunning hills to the back, we looked for our Hoetl - the Belgrave Arms. They had lost our reservation, but had a room anyway, and we were glad to be inside, out of the weather. We had worked very hard today, and glad to have a television and a jog to make 'bottomless' coffee.
Tomorrow we get back to Evanton, from where we started our final assault on the northern coasts of Scotland, before heading to Fort William, Kilchoan and then finally to Stirling in a week's time to bring our great cycling adventure to an end.
We are grateful for your continuing thoughts and prayers. Until then.....K&J
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Bettyhill to John O'Groats! - 86k - Thurs 12 July
We woke in our upstairs room at the Bettyhill Hotel to rain and cold conditions outside. The mist had rolled in from the west, giving very poor visibility in any direction. It was a cold and bleak departure from this tiny village perched on a craggy hilltop on the rugged northern coastline of Scotland.
At 10am we rolled away, and immediately the road plummeted back to the bottom of a very steep hill. The book told us we would have 6 very steep climbs in the first 17 miles (25k). This was to get us at a sea level start for the first one, which started at the bottom, and immediately went up. It was a tough climb, but not as bad as we've had. Julie went straight up and over the top. She is doing extremely well on the bike now. I suspect also she is scenting the salt air of John O'Groats just down the road, and the achievement of something that just started as a dream - to ride her bike from 'End to End'.
We climbed to great heights with staggering scenery despite the very wet conditions and low misty cloud. The coastlline is extremely rugged, and the hills have dramatic drops which give the place a lot of character. We were meeting loose sheep along the roads, who also grazed on the very steep slopes away from the road. It was startling to look down into the valleys, and especially back towards Bettyhill down the valley which was just a picture. It would have been quite startling in good weather and bright sunshine.
We climbed the 2nd of our long climbs and over the top, and were on a very fast descent before the third, going down into the little village of Armadale. It was a long open sweeping descent, and we were doing 40kph with Julie just in front of me. With wet road and the kind of descent we were doing, your eyes just watch the road. We didn't see the sign - they are always so well signed, but we both saw it in front of us and there was nothing we could do - certainly couldn't brake - but a cattle grid had suddenly loomed into our path. Julie hit it first with simply a 'blip' and then I did the same - I think our hearts stopped beating for a few seconds wondering what would become of us - but we went over it just like a car would - actually we hardly felt it. But when you condider its made of parallel railway tracks about 6'' apart, it is quite an obstacle for a bike! We always walk across them.
We did the third long climb - none of them being too tough for Julie. She is really impressive today. We passed through the village of Strathie, and then the turn off to 'Brawl' - wondering what it was that gave its name! We were counting off the climbs, and I think we got to four, wondering where the final two were, because we were running out of distance. The fifth one loomed into the picture somewhere before Melvich, and for some reason we couldn't find the 6th, or we had climbed it and not counted it because it didn't seem like such a tough climb.
The rugged coastline and solid hills turned into flat farming country after about 39k, and it was like this all the way to John O'Groats. We picked up the speed, and flew the long flats and gentle downhills, stopping a fair bit to take photos. We had crossed the border from County Sutherland with its strong gaelic influence, into County Caithness with its strong influence from the Nords. The place was rather rocky, and there was incredible evidence of the early Nordic settlements, with especially the formations and constructions that they did with the unique slated rock that is prevalent throughout Caithness.
Caithness used to belong to the Norse Earldom under fee to the King of Norway along with the Orkneys, until 1266 when it was ceded to the Scottish Crown in the Treaty of Perth. We passed through Thurso (named after Thor the god of war by the Nords) eventually coming across the Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which seems to be a blight on this otherwise beautiful and natural countryside.
Somthing for Grandad Stewart to research - the Power Station is built on an old WW2 airfield which you may wish to follow up. The runway is now used as the carpark, and looks incredible from a heighted distance. We passed the Queen Mother's former residence, the Castle of Mey at the village of Mey, with Dunnet Head the northern most point of British mainland now very prominent. We had been able to see the shadowy Orkney's for quite some time, in which was also Scapa Flow.
We were able to use the big gears a lot now, and enjoyed the cycling. The rain had cleared and the roads were rather dry now, but the sky still mostly overcast. We were keen to get to John O'Groats before 5pm so we didn't miss the little man who takes the official photos!
We had lunch in any case at Thurso, then set off for the final leg. It was 3pm and we had 32k to go, and we rolled into the long straight into John O'Groats at just after 4:30pm, having done remarkably well given the heavy loads we carry. I sat behind Julie all the way. Being the unit's official photographer, I have to keep stopping while I tell Julie to keep riding and I'll catch her. I am sure she rides faster so making it harder for me to catch her again!
The area around JOG is very flat farming land. Many might say its unspectacular, but I didn't think so. We were quite keyed up, having come this far and to finally reach this great milestone. The first thing that came into view was the Seaview Hotel with the official welcome sign to John O'Groats township. We stopped for our own photos here, first I took Julie's photo, then I had to line up beside the post for Julie to take. In juggling the heavy bike into position, it overbalanced the wrong way, and I went down with the 'ship', sprawled on the road intertwined in the bike, making a great spectacle for passers by. Having ridden all this way, I fall off the bike at the John O'Groats welcome sign!
We rolled down to the dock where the TIC was located, along with the John O'Groats hotel and several other touristy shops. It is a really lovely sight, We lined up for the official photo and happily paid the man his few pounds, and he also happily took further free ones for us on our camera.
So folks - after nearly 3,000k from Paris, and 2,000k from Land's End - WE MADE IT - in one piece with very few mishaps and all healthy and happy.
We are at Beauly today (15th Sun) just a few miles from Loch Ness on our final few days, before reaching Stirling next Saturday. Getting access to email is alsways difficult, so uif we can't get access before Stirling - we've had a great run back down the east coast. It poured rain most of yesterday, we had some very steep climbs the day before, but today the sun is out and the sky is all blue, and we are doing fine.
Until then - love from us. K&J
At 10am we rolled away, and immediately the road plummeted back to the bottom of a very steep hill. The book told us we would have 6 very steep climbs in the first 17 miles (25k). This was to get us at a sea level start for the first one, which started at the bottom, and immediately went up. It was a tough climb, but not as bad as we've had. Julie went straight up and over the top. She is doing extremely well on the bike now. I suspect also she is scenting the salt air of John O'Groats just down the road, and the achievement of something that just started as a dream - to ride her bike from 'End to End'.
We climbed to great heights with staggering scenery despite the very wet conditions and low misty cloud. The coastlline is extremely rugged, and the hills have dramatic drops which give the place a lot of character. We were meeting loose sheep along the roads, who also grazed on the very steep slopes away from the road. It was startling to look down into the valleys, and especially back towards Bettyhill down the valley which was just a picture. It would have been quite startling in good weather and bright sunshine.
We climbed the 2nd of our long climbs and over the top, and were on a very fast descent before the third, going down into the little village of Armadale. It was a long open sweeping descent, and we were doing 40kph with Julie just in front of me. With wet road and the kind of descent we were doing, your eyes just watch the road. We didn't see the sign - they are always so well signed, but we both saw it in front of us and there was nothing we could do - certainly couldn't brake - but a cattle grid had suddenly loomed into our path. Julie hit it first with simply a 'blip' and then I did the same - I think our hearts stopped beating for a few seconds wondering what would become of us - but we went over it just like a car would - actually we hardly felt it. But when you condider its made of parallel railway tracks about 6'' apart, it is quite an obstacle for a bike! We always walk across them.
We did the third long climb - none of them being too tough for Julie. She is really impressive today. We passed through the village of Strathie, and then the turn off to 'Brawl' - wondering what it was that gave its name! We were counting off the climbs, and I think we got to four, wondering where the final two were, because we were running out of distance. The fifth one loomed into the picture somewhere before Melvich, and for some reason we couldn't find the 6th, or we had climbed it and not counted it because it didn't seem like such a tough climb.
The rugged coastline and solid hills turned into flat farming country after about 39k, and it was like this all the way to John O'Groats. We picked up the speed, and flew the long flats and gentle downhills, stopping a fair bit to take photos. We had crossed the border from County Sutherland with its strong gaelic influence, into County Caithness with its strong influence from the Nords. The place was rather rocky, and there was incredible evidence of the early Nordic settlements, with especially the formations and constructions that they did with the unique slated rock that is prevalent throughout Caithness.
Caithness used to belong to the Norse Earldom under fee to the King of Norway along with the Orkneys, until 1266 when it was ceded to the Scottish Crown in the Treaty of Perth. We passed through Thurso (named after Thor the god of war by the Nords) eventually coming across the Dounreay Nuclear Power Station, which seems to be a blight on this otherwise beautiful and natural countryside.
Somthing for Grandad Stewart to research - the Power Station is built on an old WW2 airfield which you may wish to follow up. The runway is now used as the carpark, and looks incredible from a heighted distance. We passed the Queen Mother's former residence, the Castle of Mey at the village of Mey, with Dunnet Head the northern most point of British mainland now very prominent. We had been able to see the shadowy Orkney's for quite some time, in which was also Scapa Flow.
We were able to use the big gears a lot now, and enjoyed the cycling. The rain had cleared and the roads were rather dry now, but the sky still mostly overcast. We were keen to get to John O'Groats before 5pm so we didn't miss the little man who takes the official photos!
We had lunch in any case at Thurso, then set off for the final leg. It was 3pm and we had 32k to go, and we rolled into the long straight into John O'Groats at just after 4:30pm, having done remarkably well given the heavy loads we carry. I sat behind Julie all the way. Being the unit's official photographer, I have to keep stopping while I tell Julie to keep riding and I'll catch her. I am sure she rides faster so making it harder for me to catch her again!
The area around JOG is very flat farming land. Many might say its unspectacular, but I didn't think so. We were quite keyed up, having come this far and to finally reach this great milestone. The first thing that came into view was the Seaview Hotel with the official welcome sign to John O'Groats township. We stopped for our own photos here, first I took Julie's photo, then I had to line up beside the post for Julie to take. In juggling the heavy bike into position, it overbalanced the wrong way, and I went down with the 'ship', sprawled on the road intertwined in the bike, making a great spectacle for passers by. Having ridden all this way, I fall off the bike at the John O'Groats welcome sign!
We rolled down to the dock where the TIC was located, along with the John O'Groats hotel and several other touristy shops. It is a really lovely sight, We lined up for the official photo and happily paid the man his few pounds, and he also happily took further free ones for us on our camera.
So folks - after nearly 3,000k from Paris, and 2,000k from Land's End - WE MADE IT - in one piece with very few mishaps and all healthy and happy.
We are at Beauly today (15th Sun) just a few miles from Loch Ness on our final few days, before reaching Stirling next Saturday. Getting access to email is alsways difficult, so uif we can't get access before Stirling - we've had a great run back down the east coast. It poured rain most of yesterday, we had some very steep climbs the day before, but today the sun is out and the sky is all blue, and we are doing fine.
Until then - love from us. K&J
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Lairg to Bettyhill - 75k - Wed 11 July
We decided to get on the road and get to Bettyhill as soon as we could. We were booked in to the Bettyhill Hotel. We were on the road by 9:10am, quite a good start for us. We bought some groceries, and headed off into the strongest of winds from the north, perhaps north west. They were bitterly cold and blowing a gale, as only you could imagine coming from the north Atlantic. It felt like it was off the polar caps!
We were headed due north today, so we looked forward to the wind all day for the 75k trip to Bettyhill. We were on the A836, which just north of Lairg turned into a single lane road and remained that way all the way. I must say this was probably our most spectacular day, and that is a big claim. Words can hardly explain the sheer beauty and majesty of the mountains, the glens (valleys), the rivers and the paddocks, farmhouses of stone and miles of stone fencing at times.
Our first goal was the Inn at Crask, reputedly the coldest place in Scotland. I said to Julie it can't be right - it has to be the coldest place on earth! It was cold, and we laboured happily into the wickedly cold wind, because the scenery was so spectacular. We initally followed the edge of Loch Shin for a while, then the Strath Tirry (river). The beautiful mountains loomed all around, especially Ben Klibreck at over 3000ft to the north east of Crask. We had to keep stopping for photos. The first 20k or so from Lairg was a gradual and continual climb in altitude. With the wind also, we were doing between 9-16kph, mostly in our lower gears. It wasn't hard, but the wind was a little wearing at times.
Crask seems to be in the far reaches of a wilderness. We passed straight through, not wanting to stop due to the cold wind. The views though were simply spectacular, so we frequently stopped to take photos as best we could. From Crask we followed along the Strath Bagastie until we came to the little and extremely attractive hamlet of Altnaharra. The previous 15k or so was done at great speed because the gradual incline had turned into a slight descent all the way to Altnaharra. We were both flying in our large chain rings, making excellent time and enjoying the cycling immensely.
Just through Altnaharra we turned east on the B873 that follows the entire length of Loch Naver (part of Strath Naver). Guess what - we had the gale behind us now - so we were both in our big chain rings and powering with the help of the wind. The views were so lovely - across the loch, up the surrounding mountains and into the fields loaded with sheep. We also had loose sheep on the road, so we had to be extremely careful. After about 12k the road turned north, and we were back into the wind, which seemed to get gradually worse the closer we got to Bettyhill.
We still followed the River Naver, all the way to Bettyhill, still 30k to the north. We were riding past special viewing points that drew attention to the terrible things that happened in the early 1800's with the clearance of familes and entire communities from the homes and fields that they worked, so that the owners could turn their land over to sheep grazing. This happened over large parts of Scotland, but Bettyhill was the focus of the scandallous actions that affected so many thousands of Scottish families.
Despite the howling cold wind, we loved the ride into Bettyhill. There were some strong inclines, but also some nice descents also. The views along the river valley were really something special. The closer we got to Bettyhill the more spectacular and rugged the landscape became.
We finally met the A836 coming from Tongue to the west (where Bonnie Prince Charles made his escape after the Battle of Culloden), with the final few miles into Bettyhill just a spectacle of sheer beauty and rugged coastline. The wind just about blew us to a standstill, but we made the final 2k 'moderate climb' up the side of the rugged coastline to the tiny but scattered buildings making up the Bettyhill community.
The beautiful old Hotel is situated right on top of the 'hill' with panoramic views over the rugged coastline of the Torrisdale Bay. Built in 1819 by the House of Sutherland, it was a coaching Inn which was popular with especially fishermen because the Strath Naver is one of Scotland's greatest salmon rivers.
This is rugged Scotland at its remote best. Everywhere we turned we saw a photo in it. We were glad to be very early today - in by 2:30pm - I think our earliest day. The Hotel is perched high, with great views over the northern rugged coast of Scotland out into either the Atlantic or the North Sea, or both. Maybe they join about here.
We too are perched to tomorrow get ourselves to John O'Groats - the furthest most point from Land's End on the southern tip of Cornwall. It is not over for us, but the 'End to End' for us has been a significant part of our Paris-Stirling adventure. It will be a great moment for us to touch the post at John O'Groats tomorrow. Heading east, we are hoping the n/west gale keeps up overnight to push us (for a change) all the way tomorrow.
We send our love to everyone. We are both fine, happy and conscious now our great adventure is reaching iyts final stages. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. K&J
We were headed due north today, so we looked forward to the wind all day for the 75k trip to Bettyhill. We were on the A836, which just north of Lairg turned into a single lane road and remained that way all the way. I must say this was probably our most spectacular day, and that is a big claim. Words can hardly explain the sheer beauty and majesty of the mountains, the glens (valleys), the rivers and the paddocks, farmhouses of stone and miles of stone fencing at times.
Our first goal was the Inn at Crask, reputedly the coldest place in Scotland. I said to Julie it can't be right - it has to be the coldest place on earth! It was cold, and we laboured happily into the wickedly cold wind, because the scenery was so spectacular. We initally followed the edge of Loch Shin for a while, then the Strath Tirry (river). The beautiful mountains loomed all around, especially Ben Klibreck at over 3000ft to the north east of Crask. We had to keep stopping for photos. The first 20k or so from Lairg was a gradual and continual climb in altitude. With the wind also, we were doing between 9-16kph, mostly in our lower gears. It wasn't hard, but the wind was a little wearing at times.
Crask seems to be in the far reaches of a wilderness. We passed straight through, not wanting to stop due to the cold wind. The views though were simply spectacular, so we frequently stopped to take photos as best we could. From Crask we followed along the Strath Bagastie until we came to the little and extremely attractive hamlet of Altnaharra. The previous 15k or so was done at great speed because the gradual incline had turned into a slight descent all the way to Altnaharra. We were both flying in our large chain rings, making excellent time and enjoying the cycling immensely.
Just through Altnaharra we turned east on the B873 that follows the entire length of Loch Naver (part of Strath Naver). Guess what - we had the gale behind us now - so we were both in our big chain rings and powering with the help of the wind. The views were so lovely - across the loch, up the surrounding mountains and into the fields loaded with sheep. We also had loose sheep on the road, so we had to be extremely careful. After about 12k the road turned north, and we were back into the wind, which seemed to get gradually worse the closer we got to Bettyhill.
We still followed the River Naver, all the way to Bettyhill, still 30k to the north. We were riding past special viewing points that drew attention to the terrible things that happened in the early 1800's with the clearance of familes and entire communities from the homes and fields that they worked, so that the owners could turn their land over to sheep grazing. This happened over large parts of Scotland, but Bettyhill was the focus of the scandallous actions that affected so many thousands of Scottish families.
Despite the howling cold wind, we loved the ride into Bettyhill. There were some strong inclines, but also some nice descents also. The views along the river valley were really something special. The closer we got to Bettyhill the more spectacular and rugged the landscape became.
We finally met the A836 coming from Tongue to the west (where Bonnie Prince Charles made his escape after the Battle of Culloden), with the final few miles into Bettyhill just a spectacle of sheer beauty and rugged coastline. The wind just about blew us to a standstill, but we made the final 2k 'moderate climb' up the side of the rugged coastline to the tiny but scattered buildings making up the Bettyhill community.
The beautiful old Hotel is situated right on top of the 'hill' with panoramic views over the rugged coastline of the Torrisdale Bay. Built in 1819 by the House of Sutherland, it was a coaching Inn which was popular with especially fishermen because the Strath Naver is one of Scotland's greatest salmon rivers.
This is rugged Scotland at its remote best. Everywhere we turned we saw a photo in it. We were glad to be very early today - in by 2:30pm - I think our earliest day. The Hotel is perched high, with great views over the northern rugged coast of Scotland out into either the Atlantic or the North Sea, or both. Maybe they join about here.
We too are perched to tomorrow get ourselves to John O'Groats - the furthest most point from Land's End on the southern tip of Cornwall. It is not over for us, but the 'End to End' for us has been a significant part of our Paris-Stirling adventure. It will be a great moment for us to touch the post at John O'Groats tomorrow. Heading east, we are hoping the n/west gale keeps up overnight to push us (for a change) all the way tomorrow.
We send our love to everyone. We are both fine, happy and conscious now our great adventure is reaching iyts final stages. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers. K&J
Evanton to Lairg - 54k - Tues 10 July
It was great to have the time to linger a while at the local Covenant Church cafe. Evanton is a very tiny village - with a shop, a Post Office, the Covenant Church cafe and thats about it. It has a number of houses, most of which seem very old but very quaint. On the hills and mountains up behind are thge deep and dark forests which was part of the movie set for Harry Potter.
We were quite cold in the tent overnight. The camping ground is quite a picture - beautiful lush green grass, and set alongside the River Glass. It wasn't until about 11:30am that after two cappacinos, scones and a good chat, we set off north on the road to Lairg.
This is very remote country now, and we are pushing now into the very north of Scotland. The wind was blowing a gale from the west nwest. We initially headed north east for a few miles, so had the benefit of the strong wind. We were on the B817, but just before Alness, we hit the B9176 that headed due north for Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.
The road gradually climbed, enough for us to be in lower gears, and we struggled slightly now against the wind. Just before the tiny hamlet of Achandunie, the road took a deep 12% dive, down a long way and over a magnificent stone arch bridge crossing the River Alness. As these things go, for every down there is a corresponding up, so from the bridge the road climbed at 12% for a mile or so. The amazing thing is that my younger apprentice took this 12% climb in her stride, and was just on my heels all the way up. I was in my lowest granny and working hard, but she told me at the top that she was still in her middle chain drive, much to my shame. Julie has developed great strength for cycling now. She can stay with me on most roads, and is even doing the climbs now without needing to get off.
This was a most spectacular ride. It is clearly snow country, and we could see the tops of Beinn Tharsuinn at 2200ft and Cnoc an T-Sabhail at 1800ft on both sides as we continued to climb ever so gently into the valleys between. We were headed for the inner reaches of the Dornoch Firth, and the ciewing point that was a favourite of the Queen Mother's.
The countryside was clearly spectacular, but so was the fabulous views to the east down on to the Dornoch Firth and out to the North Sea from our high vantage point. We had the best of mountains and the sea. We eventually came over what eventuated to be Struie Hill, and the viewing point. It was a breathtaking view, as the land fell away and we had sweeping views all the way up the Firth as far as the Bonar Bridge at the far western point of the Firth. We still had 10k to ride to get there.
The wind was blowing a gale from that direction, and such was its strength that as we headed down the long steep decline towards Ardgay, the wind actually slowed the speed of our bikes that we let coast downhill. There was a magnificent gorge with rushing water, over which we had to pass on a massive stone bridge and viaduct. We spent time here admiring the views. The landscape was just spectacular. It was a lovely but windy run all the way to Bonar Bridge, where we had lunch beside the Kyle of Sutherland (River) at the bridge linking Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.
After lunch, we hit the wind again. Still on the A836, we continued north and followed the Kyle of Sutherland as far as Invershin, where we admired the view of Carbisdale Castle, with the Rail viaduct crossing the road above us. Still 20k from LAirg, we had a choice of the 'highway' or the 'biway' - the biway being less steep seemed great to us. It was basically the old road that followed the River Shin, past Shin Falls where we stopped and admired the nice things in the Information centre. The road was a single lane only and well protected both sides with trees. I fell off the bike while looking back and up over my shoulder at the great stone walls of the 'highway' way above us. I went 'splat' in the bank on the side of the road, hurting nothing but my pride. Julie asked if I saw any balloons (a private Bike Barn joke). The answer was no!
Lairg is a remote little village on the very southern tip of Loch Shin. It is a very well kept secret. It is so pretty in the approach from the south with its cute buildings overlooking the waters of Loch Shin. We headed for the 'Dunroamin' Caravan Park. We were blown to bits by the wind, and looked forward to getting warm in the tent. The ride today though was so spectacular, we didn't seem to mind the continual wrestle against the very strong winds. It didn't rain, but was clouded most of the day.
We had a great dinner of pork sausages with a variety of vegetables, and dessert. We don't lack in the food department. Our little Trangia cooker can cook almost anything, except a roast! The one single shower for the entire camping ground was a bit of a struggle. I joined a queue, and then when it was my turn, I wondered why the shower wouldn't work. No one told me I needed to put 20p in a little unlabelled white box on the wall. I eventually worked it out!
This is remate Scotland. It is as cold as 'charity', and we wondered what it would be like in winter! But it is beautiful, and we are so glad we are here. We huddled all night togehter in our sleeping bags, listening to the howl of the wind all night. Its been another spectacular day, for which we daily give thanks to the Lord. Tomorrow - Bettyhill at the very top of Scotlands rugged north coast.
We were quite cold in the tent overnight. The camping ground is quite a picture - beautiful lush green grass, and set alongside the River Glass. It wasn't until about 11:30am that after two cappacinos, scones and a good chat, we set off north on the road to Lairg.
This is very remote country now, and we are pushing now into the very north of Scotland. The wind was blowing a gale from the west nwest. We initially headed north east for a few miles, so had the benefit of the strong wind. We were on the B817, but just before Alness, we hit the B9176 that headed due north for Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.
The road gradually climbed, enough for us to be in lower gears, and we struggled slightly now against the wind. Just before the tiny hamlet of Achandunie, the road took a deep 12% dive, down a long way and over a magnificent stone arch bridge crossing the River Alness. As these things go, for every down there is a corresponding up, so from the bridge the road climbed at 12% for a mile or so. The amazing thing is that my younger apprentice took this 12% climb in her stride, and was just on my heels all the way up. I was in my lowest granny and working hard, but she told me at the top that she was still in her middle chain drive, much to my shame. Julie has developed great strength for cycling now. She can stay with me on most roads, and is even doing the climbs now without needing to get off.
This was a most spectacular ride. It is clearly snow country, and we could see the tops of Beinn Tharsuinn at 2200ft and Cnoc an T-Sabhail at 1800ft on both sides as we continued to climb ever so gently into the valleys between. We were headed for the inner reaches of the Dornoch Firth, and the ciewing point that was a favourite of the Queen Mother's.
The countryside was clearly spectacular, but so was the fabulous views to the east down on to the Dornoch Firth and out to the North Sea from our high vantage point. We had the best of mountains and the sea. We eventually came over what eventuated to be Struie Hill, and the viewing point. It was a breathtaking view, as the land fell away and we had sweeping views all the way up the Firth as far as the Bonar Bridge at the far western point of the Firth. We still had 10k to ride to get there.
The wind was blowing a gale from that direction, and such was its strength that as we headed down the long steep decline towards Ardgay, the wind actually slowed the speed of our bikes that we let coast downhill. There was a magnificent gorge with rushing water, over which we had to pass on a massive stone bridge and viaduct. We spent time here admiring the views. The landscape was just spectacular. It was a lovely but windy run all the way to Bonar Bridge, where we had lunch beside the Kyle of Sutherland (River) at the bridge linking Ardgay and Bonar Bridge.
After lunch, we hit the wind again. Still on the A836, we continued north and followed the Kyle of Sutherland as far as Invershin, where we admired the view of Carbisdale Castle, with the Rail viaduct crossing the road above us. Still 20k from LAirg, we had a choice of the 'highway' or the 'biway' - the biway being less steep seemed great to us. It was basically the old road that followed the River Shin, past Shin Falls where we stopped and admired the nice things in the Information centre. The road was a single lane only and well protected both sides with trees. I fell off the bike while looking back and up over my shoulder at the great stone walls of the 'highway' way above us. I went 'splat' in the bank on the side of the road, hurting nothing but my pride. Julie asked if I saw any balloons (a private Bike Barn joke). The answer was no!
Lairg is a remote little village on the very southern tip of Loch Shin. It is a very well kept secret. It is so pretty in the approach from the south with its cute buildings overlooking the waters of Loch Shin. We headed for the 'Dunroamin' Caravan Park. We were blown to bits by the wind, and looked forward to getting warm in the tent. The ride today though was so spectacular, we didn't seem to mind the continual wrestle against the very strong winds. It didn't rain, but was clouded most of the day.
We had a great dinner of pork sausages with a variety of vegetables, and dessert. We don't lack in the food department. Our little Trangia cooker can cook almost anything, except a roast! The one single shower for the entire camping ground was a bit of a struggle. I joined a queue, and then when it was my turn, I wondered why the shower wouldn't work. No one told me I needed to put 20p in a little unlabelled white box on the wall. I eventually worked it out!
This is remate Scotland. It is as cold as 'charity', and we wondered what it would be like in winter! But it is beautiful, and we are so glad we are here. We huddled all night togehter in our sleeping bags, listening to the howl of the wind all night. Its been another spectacular day, for which we daily give thanks to the Lord. Tomorrow - Bettyhill at the very top of Scotlands rugged north coast.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Croy to Evanton - 47k - Mon 9 July
We took our time leaving Craig and Shona's. Sadly Craig had a camp in (its Teen Ranch) and he was occupied full time with the camp. We had a lovely morning tea with Shona who set a table outside in the garden, with the Aussie flag as the table cloth! It was quite a touch for our little farewell from Kilravock Castle.
It was actually a beautiful day - the sky was blue and the sun was shining. We left with our coats on because it was a bit 'nippy' but that lasted a few k and off they came for the entire ride. We left with dense forest on both sides as we cycled down the long country road from Clephanton (where the Castle is) towards Inverness, past Croy. We stopped at the incredible sight of what turned out to be the Culloden Viaduct - a massive Roman looking construction that was the long and high train bridge across the River Nairn valley. It stood hundreds of feet high, with very long arched stone legs reaching all the way down into the valey - a sight to behold.
Then we came to the famous Battlefield of Culloden, where in 1746 the Jacobite forces loyal to Bonnie Prince Charles of Scotland (who was making claims to the Kingship of both Scotland and England, after his grandfather James - a Catholic King - was was exiled by William of Orange (a Protestant and married to James daughter!), and sought exile in France. Bonnie Prince Charles was referred to as the 'young Pretender', his father - born to James just before William intervened - was always the 'old Pretender - meaning he had aspirations to the throne. 'Jacobite' comes from 'jacubus' - or James - they were loyalists to the Catholioc James (now dead) and massed on the Moor of Culloden against the far superior and vastly biiger numbers of the English (Government forces headed by the nasty Duke of Cumberland.
The result is history. The Jacobites were entirely Scots, and mostly Highlanders and almost entirely Catholic - so this was more a battle with religious overtones than a territorial one. England had Scots fighting for them - from the lowlands but who were Protestant sympathisers. Thats at least my understanding of it. It was a slaughter - the 'Scots' were beaten severely, and the cruelty of the Duke's forces extended beyond the battle to the Highland villages around. It was the final battle on English soil.
The Battle field is a wide open moor - I suppose the sad moment was when Julie found the burial site for the Stewart Clan who fought with Bonnie Prince Charlie - they came and fought as an entire clan, and were probably decimated. There is a single headstone where all the Stewarts both fell, died and are buried on the battlefield. It was a sensitive moment to say the least, but a precious and valuable one nevertheless.
We left on our bikes with the views down across the Moray Firth just opening up and stunning. We could see all of Inverness, the bridge spanning the Firth, with Moray Firth on the east and Beauly Firth to the west. We would be riding the bridge. The sunshine makes such a difference to Scotland. We saw it today in all its colour and beauty. The beauty stretched to the Highlands (we are officially in the Highlands, but still on the coast). We could see the massive peaks of Ben Wyvis (3200ft) and Little Wyvis (2200ft) giving the beautiful backdrop to the vuillage of Evanton, our destination on the northern coast of the Cromarty Firth.
We stopped for groceries in Inverness then attacked the bridge. The sights from the bridge both east and west were stunning. We came off on the Black Isle - a tongue of land that separates the Firth of Moray and Cromarty - it is some 20k wide, and rises for several miles keeping us in low gears but not troubled, then it peaks and opens up the most dramatic scenery of the northern Highlands of Scotland, the villages along the northern side of the Firth, another long bridge to cross, and the road north into some 'tall timber'.
We met two cyclists on the bridge - a father and son doing the 'End to End'. They were amazed at the load on our bikes - they were doing B&B - but they didn't ride any faster than us. As they turned north and with us just behind, a massive truck smashed into the rear of a car that was just passing the son. It was an incredibly near miss, and a very unhappy car driver.
We came into a most beautiful caravan park set beside the River Glass at the tiny village of Evanton. The large and dark forests up the huge hills behind Evanton were the scenes for the movies of Harry Potter - so when you see the sinister forests etc - it was just up behind our camping spot.
It was a great sunny day. We were hot when we arrived, and the tent got hot as we set it up - all a new sensation for us after 5 weeks of camping! However, overnight it rained again, and we had breakfast in the tent with the rain falling outside. I am in the village now, all packed for the big trip to Lairg today, at the local Church Cafe/worship centre. This is a Godly place and we are taking time to enjoy.
We heard the news from home this morning that our wonderful friend of almost our entire life time has passed away a few hours ago. David MacDonald has been a close friend since teenage years, he and I were competative athletes on the Canberra scene all those years ago. He was an extremely gifted soccer player, a gutsy long distance athlete, and a close friend who was a groomsman at our wedding. We lost touch for a lot of years, but since we moved to Sydney, we have renewed our friendship. David learned that he had serious cancer just months ago, and asked if I would conduct his funeral. Well, I am so sorry David. He wanted to hang out until I got home - he was brave and courageous, accepting his condition, and apparently said from his hospital bed this week that he wasn't going yet, until Kelvin gets home. He leaves a lovely partner in Sue, and two of the best of young adult children in Karena and Ben. Our thoughts are with his family. He was 'poppy' to his granchildren - all of whom loved him dearly and will greatly miss him. Before I left I shared with David the verse from Scripture - 'The Lord is MY Shepherd', who knows him by name and into whose hands we entrust him completely.
Until next time - Kelvin and Julie
It was actually a beautiful day - the sky was blue and the sun was shining. We left with our coats on because it was a bit 'nippy' but that lasted a few k and off they came for the entire ride. We left with dense forest on both sides as we cycled down the long country road from Clephanton (where the Castle is) towards Inverness, past Croy. We stopped at the incredible sight of what turned out to be the Culloden Viaduct - a massive Roman looking construction that was the long and high train bridge across the River Nairn valley. It stood hundreds of feet high, with very long arched stone legs reaching all the way down into the valey - a sight to behold.
Then we came to the famous Battlefield of Culloden, where in 1746 the Jacobite forces loyal to Bonnie Prince Charles of Scotland (who was making claims to the Kingship of both Scotland and England, after his grandfather James - a Catholic King - was was exiled by William of Orange (a Protestant and married to James daughter!), and sought exile in France. Bonnie Prince Charles was referred to as the 'young Pretender', his father - born to James just before William intervened - was always the 'old Pretender - meaning he had aspirations to the throne. 'Jacobite' comes from 'jacubus' - or James - they were loyalists to the Catholioc James (now dead) and massed on the Moor of Culloden against the far superior and vastly biiger numbers of the English (Government forces headed by the nasty Duke of Cumberland.
The result is history. The Jacobites were entirely Scots, and mostly Highlanders and almost entirely Catholic - so this was more a battle with religious overtones than a territorial one. England had Scots fighting for them - from the lowlands but who were Protestant sympathisers. Thats at least my understanding of it. It was a slaughter - the 'Scots' were beaten severely, and the cruelty of the Duke's forces extended beyond the battle to the Highland villages around. It was the final battle on English soil.
The Battle field is a wide open moor - I suppose the sad moment was when Julie found the burial site for the Stewart Clan who fought with Bonnie Prince Charlie - they came and fought as an entire clan, and were probably decimated. There is a single headstone where all the Stewarts both fell, died and are buried on the battlefield. It was a sensitive moment to say the least, but a precious and valuable one nevertheless.
We left on our bikes with the views down across the Moray Firth just opening up and stunning. We could see all of Inverness, the bridge spanning the Firth, with Moray Firth on the east and Beauly Firth to the west. We would be riding the bridge. The sunshine makes such a difference to Scotland. We saw it today in all its colour and beauty. The beauty stretched to the Highlands (we are officially in the Highlands, but still on the coast). We could see the massive peaks of Ben Wyvis (3200ft) and Little Wyvis (2200ft) giving the beautiful backdrop to the vuillage of Evanton, our destination on the northern coast of the Cromarty Firth.
We stopped for groceries in Inverness then attacked the bridge. The sights from the bridge both east and west were stunning. We came off on the Black Isle - a tongue of land that separates the Firth of Moray and Cromarty - it is some 20k wide, and rises for several miles keeping us in low gears but not troubled, then it peaks and opens up the most dramatic scenery of the northern Highlands of Scotland, the villages along the northern side of the Firth, another long bridge to cross, and the road north into some 'tall timber'.
We met two cyclists on the bridge - a father and son doing the 'End to End'. They were amazed at the load on our bikes - they were doing B&B - but they didn't ride any faster than us. As they turned north and with us just behind, a massive truck smashed into the rear of a car that was just passing the son. It was an incredibly near miss, and a very unhappy car driver.
We came into a most beautiful caravan park set beside the River Glass at the tiny village of Evanton. The large and dark forests up the huge hills behind Evanton were the scenes for the movies of Harry Potter - so when you see the sinister forests etc - it was just up behind our camping spot.
It was a great sunny day. We were hot when we arrived, and the tent got hot as we set it up - all a new sensation for us after 5 weeks of camping! However, overnight it rained again, and we had breakfast in the tent with the rain falling outside. I am in the village now, all packed for the big trip to Lairg today, at the local Church Cafe/worship centre. This is a Godly place and we are taking time to enjoy.
We heard the news from home this morning that our wonderful friend of almost our entire life time has passed away a few hours ago. David MacDonald has been a close friend since teenage years, he and I were competative athletes on the Canberra scene all those years ago. He was an extremely gifted soccer player, a gutsy long distance athlete, and a close friend who was a groomsman at our wedding. We lost touch for a lot of years, but since we moved to Sydney, we have renewed our friendship. David learned that he had serious cancer just months ago, and asked if I would conduct his funeral. Well, I am so sorry David. He wanted to hang out until I got home - he was brave and courageous, accepting his condition, and apparently said from his hospital bed this week that he wasn't going yet, until Kelvin gets home. He leaves a lovely partner in Sue, and two of the best of young adult children in Karena and Ben. Our thoughts are with his family. He was 'poppy' to his granchildren - all of whom loved him dearly and will greatly miss him. Before I left I shared with David the verse from Scripture - 'The Lord is MY Shepherd', who knows him by name and into whose hands we entrust him completely.
Until next time - Kelvin and Julie
Monday, July 9, 2007
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
